Billy Quon’s Sur in Carmel’s Barnyard reflects all the restaurants of his legacy.

After reading up on Bill Lee’s history in Monterey, I have to admit I was curious to visit his new restaurant. It’s his tenth attempt in the area, and he says it’s his last. Though he’s burned a few bridges on the path of opening and closing so many doors (some have remained open under other owners), he’s made many fans as well.

Billy Quon’s Sur is located at the site that Lee and his wife/restaurant partner Teresa Lee designed a decade ago for one of their former projects, Bixby’s Martini Bar. The place is gorgeous. Cozily tucked in among the flowers and boutique stores of Carmel’s Barnyard Shopping Village, the restaurant is simultaneously chic, modern and all-around beautiful. Burnt orange Spanish tiles and walls are lit by contemporary light fixtures and complemented by a natural vibe. Giant tree branches act as room barriers and rustic wooden décor sets a friendly mood – as do the smiling waitstaff, whose service was exemplary.

Happy hour only happens by the bar, so that’s where I found myself one sunny Tuesday evening. Although they boast a tempting drink list (including many local wines and a special flaming Champagne), I was more interested in some discounted small bites that can also be found on their regular menu – the fish tacos ($7.50), “already famous” bacon and cheese bread ($7) and prime rib slider with fries ($9.75). Happy hour drinks (3-6pm daily) include well martinis, margaritas and manhattans ($6.50), house wines ($5.50) and all craft draft beers ($6).

Different flavors of dressings emerged from the tacos, like avocado, pico de gallo and a festive cabbage slaw with shreds of bell peppers, carrots, green onions and cilantro. Panko-crusted and skillfully fried, the soft fish was tasty enough to stand alone.

The thick-cut glazed bacon and cheese bread pulled off something challenging: being original and delicious. Actually it was more the bacon that pulled it off, with a sweet yet spicy sticky honey coating after a dry rub. I’m not one to get caught up in the salty craze, but the heavy marinade differentiated this from any bacon I’ve had. Crusty as the menu promised, the bread could have used a little softness in the middle to let the Parmesan shine.

The slider delivers tender prime rib on brioche, brought to life by onion marmalade and white cheddar (and a horseradish dip). Though difficult to steal a bite from my dinner date, it was worth it.

Despite the filling appetizers, I couldn’t leave without sampling the fried chicken and waffles. Ever since I tried this dish a while back, I have been mildly obsessed. And since I am admittedly fussy about meat sourcing, I was pleased to see that Chef Herman Hernandez’s locally well-known version is made with Mary’s free-range chicken. This southern comfort ($22) delivered everything I could have hoped for. Crunchy, flavorful skin on three tenderly cooked pieces (thigh, wing and drumstick) gave way to the juicy lean protein loaded on top of a fresh Belgian waffle and half a corn on the cob. Topping options included butter, syrup and lightly-herbed honey, the last of which was fun to drizzle thanks to a sprig of rosemary in the bottle – and more fun to eat.

Only a few days passed before we couldn’t resist going back, and we decided to soak in the warm weather on the small but charming patio for a Saturday lunch.

I had eyed the veggie ravioli ($19.50) on the menu before, so it was an easy choice. But before long, I was eyeing the Big Sur burger ($14.50) across the table.

My dish was a letdown for the price. Though the raviolis softly deliver enjoyable cheesy creaminess, it seemed to be only a few bites before they were gone. I realize this kind of pasta takes some talent to create, but no one wants a whole plate of sauce – albeit fresh and delicious sauce – because there wasn’t enough of the main feature. A couple extra raviolis would have made all the difference, as would more feta. The carrot and asparagus sticks on top were a little bland compared to the fresh heirloom tomato relish, and cheese was the saving grace. The imported olives were not noteworthy – heated through, they lost subtleties.

I was relieved with a few bites of an American classic: A solid half-pound burger nestled between fresh iceberg, tomato, caramelized onions and that thick glazed bacon accompanied by French fries as seasoned as the hands that made them – the fries were crunchy outside, pillowy within.

Even better was the homemade mud pie dessert ($8.50), a huge hunk of two ice creams frozen together in the shape of a slice – Marianne’s caramel fudge crunch and chocolate peanut butter. A decadent crust held the cold goodness together, and the strawberries and blackberries added a welcome touch of brightness.

Despite the veggie ravioli hiccup, I will be returning to try pretty much everything else. The menu offered a handful of local options, the food was cooked with clear experience and the ambiance doesn’t get much better. If this really is Lee’s last joint, his career will be going out with a bang.

Billy Quon’s Sur 3601 The Barnyard, Carmel. 11:30am-9pm Tue-Sun. (831) 250-7188, www.surcarmel.com.