Alvarado Street Brewery goes big in downtown Monterey.

Some new places are promising. Others seem to deliver on a promise with their very arrival. Alvarado Street Brewery & Grill (655-BEER) and its nearly 5,000-square-foot, 110-seat, 20-foot-tall expanse taps into the latter category. I know it’s early, and the draft beers are a little spendy ($6-$8), but the mix of vibe and chef and brewmaster and design give it the feel of a gamechanger, and make its opening some of the best redevelopment and foodie news in the downtown area in years.

Monterey has been ready for another pillar to join 1833 and progressive new management at the Golden State Theatre, and this biggie not only reinvented a space dominated by pigeons and old movie marquees, but did it quickly – with a certain sparkle and attention to detail. It enjoys a throwback feel to match the property’s 1915 vintage, without sacrificing a modernity, by way of elements like riveted steel lamps to match the original beams still holding up the ceiling (and the mixed-use apartments above).

Its architect, John Hill, has helped scheme some noticeable buildings, including The Intercontinental on Cannery Row and the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe, and told me when I broke word of the project last summer he was “hoping we can really open [the space] up.”

Mission accomplished there – check out the 30-photo slideshow on the blog, www.mcweekly.com/edible – with a wide, welcoming space flanked by an open kitchen, windows to the tank room where all the beer is brewed (some to be aged in whiskey and wine barrels upstairs) and banners of vintage beer cans by Carmel photographer Winston Swift Boyer.

ASB’s designer adds something that will be surprising to hear for some local restaurant owners: The city was a dream to work with, helping rather than complicating things. That is due at least in part to the city’s Downtown Specific Plan, which streamlines permitting, gives the development community a formula for enhancing streetscapes and signage, connects downtown to the waterfront and ups navigability for bikes, buses and cars.

But even the best game needs major players.

His son will be one of those, starting with the craft beer piece of the puzzle. After hopping to it as a home brewer and kebab shop owner, J.C. Hill launched Amplified Ale Works in San Diego, and earned certification as a beer sommelier, or cicerone, and stripes at Cornell’s prestigious hotel-hospitality school.

At 426 Alvarado St., he has assembled a brewing operation and an introductory lineup of beers will include a Belgian Blonde Ale, West Coast-style IPA, a pale ale and a Belgian Brown, plus “a few more surprises” he says will have to wait until the opening, which happened after this went to press. At the soft opening Monday he tasted me on a complex pine-scented hops party Minesweeper IPA ($7.50), a delightfully light Bixby Belgian Blonde ($6.50) alit with banana and bubble gum florality and a light chocolate-oats Doc Brown ($7). Each were balanced and unique, boding well for the seven empty slots on the underpopulated Alvarado Street side of the beer board. Eleven others including Firestone Easy Jack and Hofbrau Original occupy guest openings on the opposite side. Hill’s also eager to do dark ales and aging in various barrels, whether whiskey or wine – and 4 percent beers that lend to sessionability.

A full 100 percent of the proceeds from the May 7 public debut benefit flowed to the Community Hospital of the Monterey Peninsula’s Carol Hatton Breast Cancer Fund, which enjoys some historic poetry because owner and Head Brewer J.C. Hill’s grandfather helped to design and build the hospital.

“I can’t think of a better way to start giving back,” J.C. says.

I can’t think of a better chef to have helm it. Young, French-trained and savvy Aaron Haas has run the kitchen at Evergreen in Yosemite and worked with Jerry Regester at C Restaurant (375-4800), but has me more excited by his time resetting the Pagrovian palate at jenini kitchen + wine bar (920-2662) with Exec Chef Jeffrey Weiss’ vibrant and enlightening geo-Mediterranean fare.

They got so in sync at jennini, Haas laughs about it now.

“There’d be moments we’d say, ‘Get outta my head,’” he says. “We’d be thinking the same thing – same, but different.”

The menu lists five small bites like Euro-fusion poutines (delicious cheese curd-fries-and-beer-gravy messes, $9), smoked mussels in a citrus-curry-toasted grain broth ($12) and tasso pork cured with harissa and piled on charred asparagus with a soft-boiled egg and piave cheese ($9). Five salads include the ribbon salad ($8) with thin-sliced cucumber, zucchini, squash and carrots in a chive-thyme vinaigrette. Six flatbreads star a must-try house duck ham-pineapple-pickled chile number ($13). The six large bites feature the night’s daily catch, which on Monday was halibut ($23) on a bed of golden raisins and cheddar-and-green cauliflower, with black ale butter sauce.

Like many locals, General Manager Kris Cowdrey seems most eager to see the impact the new anchor has on the heart of downtown Monterey.

“We’re poised to help revitalize downtown,” he says, “with a newly designed space that is comfortable and welcoming and offering an ingredient-driven menu.”

That was already happening with the soft opening. Consider it a promise the enthusiasm will continue.

~ QUICKBITES ~

•Monterey Bagel Company (236-6550) is open in Mundaka Cafe on San Carlos in Carmel, with house-cultured cream cheeses – including lox and zatar infused options – plus coffee, teas and mimosas, with more on the way. Open until 2:30pm (ish) except Mondays.

•You can now get chicken and waffles in Seaside, which feels good. It’s $10.95 on the under-the-radar dinner menu at Breakfast Club (394-3238) for a breast, thigh and leg on a Belgian-style waffle.

• Win tickets to Cooking for Solutions Saturday night DJ-dessert-dance party with Alton Brown ($65-$80) by downloading MC NOW, the Weekly’s new events app. Text “weekly” to 77948 or go to your app store to download.

•Companion Bakery has arrived at MPC Farmers Market on Fridays. Superb bread.

•Helping the Visiting Nurse Association & Hospice equals tickets for a chance to win gift certificates for dinner for two people at 20 or so of my favorite local restaurants, like Edgar’s, Bistro Moulin and Moss Landing Cafe. Pacific’s Edge threw in for the most ($250). Entries are $10 apiece or 12 for $100 on www.ccvna.com or by calling 648-3734.

• Veuve Clicquot and its Chef de Cave Dominique Demarville join Justin Cogley and Aubergine (624-8578) for a four-course Champagne dinner Monday, May 19 ($195).

•This month the 55th annual Castroville Artichoke Food & Wine Festival moves to Monterey Fairgrounds May 31-June 1.

• Fun fact: Olive trees can live past 600. Tasty fact: Holman Ranch estate olive oil ($25/375ml) is superb thanks to a blend of Tuscan, Spanish and French varietals. It’s also now available online and at the tasting room (659-2640). Fluid fact: The winery (www.holmanranch.com) took gold at the 12th annual Pinot Noir Summit in San Fran for its 2010 Hunter’s Cuvee Pinot Noir ($40) and 2010 Estate Blend Pinot Noir ($33).

• Bernardus does a free wine tasting and pairs its best at bargain rates with a special menu at Rio Grill (625-5436) June 5. I’ve already roped it off.

• Chavelas are good. Real good. Great spots to get them are up on the blog.

• Note for 2015: The Monterey Bay Race Place is a great place to watch the Kentucky Derby with a mint julep and a horse from Coalinga, Calif.

• “They who drink beer,” Washington Irving said, “will think beer.”