A roll in the barrel turns the classic Manhattan into something worthy of its status.

Very few bartenders get wood. And for those that do, it is a fairly recent occurrence.

And if you think alcohol or long hours may be likely causes, your mind is in the wrong place. Get it out of the gutter and consider the wonders of oak.

Bartenders only began exploring the possibilities of cocktails and barrel aging over the past decade. Try the Portola Signature Manhattan at Jacks Monterey and you’ll see how fortunate we are to be part of this rising trend. The blend of bourbon, vermouth and bitters rests in wood for at least two weeks, emerging as a well-mannered cocktail. It pats the palate with a warm greeting, something from the time-worn comfort of old gentlemen’s clubs (think cherry-scented tobacco, leather lounges and wooden walls with a smoky patina). Hints of vanilla, dabs of honey and a touch of chocolate caramel linger on the senses.

Aging brings the audible elements keen for a solo into a congenial hum. Only on the finish is there a kind of crescendo – bittersweet and swept with dry leaves and the fallow memories of fall.

JACKS MONTEREY 2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. 649-7830, portolahotel.com