A food lover’s log from San Francisco, from foie gras to gator.

San Francisco, one of the world’s great cities. So near. So many great restaurants. I tried to eat at all of them on a recent week, and made it to about 15. Some were planned; some stumbled upon. Here appear highlights:

Absinthe Brasserie and Bar (398 Hayes St., www.absinthe.com) cultivates a wonderful, low-light, mid-20th century, European, art-deco ambience and offers two entrees that we thought were sensational. One is the Spanish octopus ($30) made with warm potato salad, fava beans, flambeau radish and lemon-grain mustard vinaigrette. The other, the lamb and wild mushroom pappardelle ($26), made with wild mushroom sauce, peas, favas, parmesan, herb bread crumbs and olio verde ($26). Dessert? Buttermilk panna cotta ($9) – basil meringue, strawberry compote, strawberry crumb. Its combination of flavors and textures were off the charts on the tastiness scale. My favorite place for food plus atmosphere.

B44 Catalan Bistro (44 Belden Place, www.b44sf.com): Under an awning tucked away in an alley around Union Square, Spanish fare satisfies a native Spaniard food critic like my wife. We started with a plate of jamon Ibérico ($20), an exquisite cured ham that I could snack on every day. Next, the gambas al ajillo ($14) – white gulf shrimp sauteed with garlic and adobo. Sweet home España! Sauteed mussels ($13), a sofrito with pancetta, green peas and tarragon. Another hit. The revered custom of sopping up all the sauces with the typical Spanish-style baguette was honored. That, along with the Turonia white wine ($11) made for a totally satisfying lunch.

Boxing Room (399 Grove St., www.boxingroom.com) delivers three things not seen on most menus: turtle, frog legs and alligator. I needed to try them. The Taste of the Swamp sampler plate ($18.50) made that possible. The sweet and spicy hot turtle and gator dishes paired well with the Moonlight “Reality Czech” Pilsner ($8). The small sample of the tiny frog legs (four) – crispy outside, tender inside – had me wanting more. Same goes for the charbroiled oysters ($10.50) with garlic herb butter, lemon and breadcrumbs. Next, a generous portion of crispy, golden-brown fried gator ($14) with lemon and a creole remoulade. Tasty. Like chicken strips. Louisiana coastal with a big city vibe. I’ll go back.

La Ciccia (291 30th St., www.laciccia.com) comes busy and buzzing with good cheer and old neighborhood charm. Two appetizers I just had to try: Prupisceddu in umidu cun tomatiga ($15) – baby octopus stew in a spicy tomato sauce – and the cancioffada cun cori de tonnu ($15), chilled braised artichokes, onions, olives, topped with shaved tuna heart. Both appetizers were extremely flavorful and generously portioned. My entree: the pezza de angioni a sa saba ($29), seared lamb tenderloin tagliata drizzled with saba syrup. Perfectly seasoned and caramelized outside, tender, juicy and medium rare inside. A generous mound of fresh, sweet peas made the dish pop with flavor, texture and color. Our very attentive and knowledgeable server made a great call on a wine that covered the appetizers and entrees in spectacular fashion, the Blasio Cannonau di Sardegna riserva 2009 ($14). My pasta-loving wife went with the night’s pasta special – fetuccine with lamb, veal and prosciutto ($24). She ate every drop. This meal was memorable for the pure pleasure. Strictly food-wise, my favorite place of all.

Monsieur Benjamin (451 Gough St., www.monsieurbenjamin.com): We had walked by it at least a dozen times during the week. Pricey, upscale, a quintessentially French menu and always packed. Appetizers ranged from the butter lettuce salad ($12.50) to the foie gras ($28). Main courses: tarte flambé ($18); steak frites ($42). After a week of unrestrained eating, our appetites were a bit fatigued so we went light. No appetizers. I chose the quail a la chasseur ($32); she, the duck confit and sausage ($31). Also some pomme frites with aioli ($7). Classic French. Extremely satisfying. There are about 20 other things I want to try. I will definitely return.

Old Jerusalem (2976 Mission St., www.oldjerusalemrestaurantsf.com) Excellent Mideastern cuisine in a casual and charming old-worldish setting. Pre-meal we get a generous supply of nicely toasted pita bread, a tahini, parsley, olive oil and garlic spread, pickled turnip slices, green olives and a slightly spicy hot onion and tomato based condiment they call Turkish salad. We shared a very creamy and abundant baba ghanoush appetizer ($7.95) and the shawarma plate ($12.95) – lamb and beef served with hummus and saffron rice. A great lunch. Arabic coffee ($3.50) too – thick, strong, sweet and spiced with cardamom. A perfect finish. Well worth a visit. Lunch or dinner.

Honorable mentions: Curbside Café (2417 California St. www.sfcurbside.com), with maybe the best French toast ($9) I’ve ever had, bourbon baked. Great crab eggs benedict ($14) too. Lers Ros Thai (730 Larkin St., www.lersros.com) does excellent tom ka gai ($12.95). Pork Store Café (1451 Haight St., www.porkstorecafe.com) serves hearty lunch and breakfast menus. Loved their honey-dipped fried chicken and mashed potatoes ($11.50).