A reader wrote in on a mission.
And that mission would ultimately lead to a tasty—and timely—place.
Tim Peck of Carmel Valley saw what he called my "enthusiastic endorsement of the Big Sur Roadhouse in general and of the blackened salmon in particular" and promptly headed down for lunch.
The salmon, I must say, is incredible. And wild king salmon season started this month.
Only the spicy salmon doesn't appear on the lunch menu and by the time he arranged another visit its creator Matt Glazer had moved on.
(As I recently reported, the Big Sur Roadhouse is in good hands with Exec Chef Brendan Esons, Pastry Chef Carissa Fritts and GM Jeanette Kenworthy.)
So Peck's hopes for 1) a taste, a recipe ("or at least a rough guideline") or 2) a place to track down Glazer seemed like a long shot.
But Glazer enthusiastically responded to an email with this:
"So the method's really in the madness," he wrote. "This is per 1 each portion of Monterey Bay wild king salmon, portioned tranche. Don't try and do the whole filet cuz that'd be a f*** up."
And bam. The recipe followed, with a little kitchen poetry embedded in it:
1 ea fresh salmon, 6-8oz tranche (or portion)
2 Tbl California rice oil (or a high heat oil)
Tabasco, couple shakes
Spice blend*, enough to dredge the whole tranche.
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 Tbl creme fraiche
1/2 t fresh lemon juice
1 finely chopped green onion.
In a well-ventilated or outdoor kitchen, in a heavy pan (well-seasoned cast iron is ideal) put it on high heat for minutes: get the pan as hot as it can get.
White hot—hot-hot...dangerously hot.
While the pan is getting frighteningly hot, season the salmon by, in this order, applying the shakes of Tabasco directly to both sides of the tranche; sprinkling a little salt and pepper (you'll notice the Tabasco makes the spices stick); and then dredging the whole tranche in the spice blend until it's covered.
When you "pat" the filet it shouldn't have any wet or visible salmon flesh (because it's covered in spices).
Mix the cut green onion, creme fraiche, lemon juice, and salt and pepper in a small bowl. Set aside.
By this point the cast iron's hot enough to forge a sword and you're ready to cook.
In your right hand you'll hold the amount of oil and in your left hand you'll hold the seasoned salmon filet. NOTE: this is dangerous so be careful!!
In one fluid motion you put the oil in the hot pan and the filet gently in the oil.
Don't wait to put the salmon, do it all at once.
Oil-salmon in one fluid motion. Don't walk away.
There will be lots and lots of smoke. If there's not, the pan wasn't hot enough. After about 25-45 seconds with a fish spatula or metal spatula turn the fish over. The spices should be blackened.
When you turn the fish, shut off the heat. And pull the pan off the heat.
After 25-44 seconds the fish is done. The doneness of the fish is defined by how long it stays on the heat after the flip. 10-15 is very rare, 20-25 is good, longer is well done. Good salmon should be rare.
Garnish with a spoon full of lemon-herb creme fraiche.
*Spice mix: proprietary so make your own out of these ingredients.
Paprika
Smoked paprika (very little)
Mustard powder
Garlic powder
Onion powder
Dark chile powder
Cayenne pepper
Black pepper
White pepper
Dry phyme, ground
•••
After I passed along the recipe Peck had this in reply: "Although I'm no judge, because I don't watch much beyond The Daily Show, I have a sense that Glazer merits a television cameo.
"I shall definitely give the recipe a try, and hope that ultimately I can test my attempt against the real deal when he decides to re-engage."
There you go Glazer.
Your next gig is pretty much preordained.
Though you seem plenty content preparing for the June arrival of your first kid and, as you put it, "just dreaming."
For my part, I dream of blackened wild king salmon.

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