Tasting notes from new Exec Chef Mikey Adams' first Restaurant 1833 menu.

The ingredients can be special and smart, the flavors fresh and interesting, the execution mindful and mouthwatering.

But as many food enthusiasts have attempted to articulate, there's an elusive—and abstract—element that makes dining greater than the sum of those more predictable parts.

Some call it love.

For the guy standing at the helm of Restaurant 1833's latest reinvention, joy would probably be a better word.

And something the place hungered for of late.

It's there in homages he pays to his past, including his mom's pizzas, his native Santa Cruz, an adopted Scotland and the intriguing Far East.

It's there in his playful but devoutly approachable fare, items that say "fun," "comfort," and "share me."

It's also there in his general disposition.

Bearded and tatted Mikey Adams exudes genuine enjoyment because this is the job he always wanted, and one he was willing to wait for as he prepared himself for the moment.

That started with demanding but eyeopening work as a line cook in Edinburgh and included stops at Northern California landmarks like Michelin-starred One Market in San Francisco and Shimo Modern Steak in Healdsburg.

It crystallized through work with 1833 founding Chef Levi Mezick and his ultimate successor, James Beard-nominated Jason Franey, as Adams took on new techniques and learned what it takes to run an entire kitchen.

As he progressed, some whispers emerged from those-in-the-know. 

"Mikey designed that dish," they said. "Isn't that something?"

A 15-dish media tasting Oct. 20 was certainly something. 

Notes from each dish of the rich experience appear here. 

(Vital side note: Wine Director Bernabe de Luna reasserted his gift for conducting pairings that don't complement so much as they elevate, by way of brightness, acid, earthiness and expression. Highlights included Rapley Trail Vineyard Pinot Noir and Walker's Vineyard Nebbiolo by Thomas Fogarty and a hypnotizing Chateau des Tour Cotes du Rhone Reserve.)

Wonton crisps with sweet chili mayo • The simple and satisfying bar snack tips off Adams' intuition for Eastern flavors: He uses Japanese Kewpie mayo, a cult sensation among fans of the cuisine—BTW, he says his best dish at home is ramen— for the delicious dip because, "We can't make it any better than they do."

Oaxacan string cheese sticks • Cheese sticks as you know them have died and gone to heaven. Panko-crusted and served with a smoked jalapeño ranch, they know no earthly equal. Among four of us, they lasted maybe 30 seconds on our table.

Warm artichoke dip • It sounds so pedestrian, but proves inspired—enough so that Adams considers it his signature dish. Inspired by the flavors from Duarte's famous soups (at the James Beard hall of fame spot in Pescadero), it layers snappy green chile spice with soothing artichoke depth. The one issue—the garlic sourdough was so good it distracted from the main event—has been remedied. Balance in the universe has been restored.

Shrimp ceviche • One of the real highlights of the evening, the Mexican-coastal medley of shrimp, tender pinto beans and shaved radish in a small tostada format levitated thanks to a tomatillo-coconut crema. "Definitely finger-licking," Adams said.

Lemon chicken rillettes • This one underwhelmed despite an intriguing mix of cauliflower, well-tuned Meyer lemon spark and smoked almonds, designed to be scooped into a thick pita pocket. Adams calls it his trip back to Scotland. I'd go for the lively marinated-and-braised chicken paste in a less obtrusive vehicle than the pita.

Kale-sunflower shoot salad • One of my colleagues at the Weekly makes a Trick Dog-inspired kale salad that he rightly proclaims the undisputed best ever. Now there's some dispute to be had. Borrowing from his bohemian background (and current home), Adams adds red onion, quinoa and manchego custard, lines the bottom with chile cream and layers it all with a genius "hippy vinaigrette" made from a half dozen seeds like flax and hemp. "Santa Cruz in a bowl," Adams says.

Focaccia pizza • This marks a startling departure from 1833's previous wood-fired pizzas, and some will struggle to adapt. (They also continue to mourn the loss of the cheddar-bacon biscuits.) I hope they give it a chance: Thick but cloudy-soft rosemary focaccia comes topped with walnut pesto, Marin French cheese, Bartlett pear, prosciutto and arugula. Filling and fabulous.

Smoked salmon • Served with Early Girl tomato risotto (with cipollini onions, mushrooms and basil), tamari-roasted pumpkin seeds, creamed leeks and a beurre rouge (a butter-red wine sauce), this might be the one dish to try if you're not lucky enough to try, oh, 15. It's beyond silky, and unique while being familiar.

1833 burger • Good God just go eat it. Blessed with two thinner patties, crispy jalapeños "caps," thick bacon, Monterey jack, green chili mayo and jalapeño ranch, it honors Adams passion. "It's my obsession," he says. "I wanted to knock it out of the park."

Brussels sprouts • This now-common item gets an uncommon prep: smoked and pickled garlic, crispy pancetta and a maple glaze do the sprouts nicely.

Barbecue tri-tip • Another tribute to style and execution, his tri-tip rides alongside tempura-style maitake mushrooms, with understated Korean barbecue sauce and kimchi porridge. Fun flavors.

Roasted acorn squash • A dish that celebrates seasonal vegetables, with black eyed peas, Swiss chard, peanuts and a coconut curry that brings it all together. 

Painted Hills N.Y. strip and all-natural Angus ribeye • I could barely sit up at this point, but crispy potato "wagon wheels" and red pepper chimichurri brought balance and zing to a final double-down indulgence.

Creamed greens • In some ways, this take on a classic side, built from Swiss chard, dandelion greens, mustard greens and hazelnut—enriched naughtily with beurre rouge—serves as a good metaphor for Adams new menu, and 1833's latest game: It's both fresh and rich, familiar but different, indulgent though accessible.