PHOTOS: Roux debuts in Carmel Valley.

Runaway expectations have a way of undermining an experience that might otherwise have been just fine.

Which had me a little worried going into opening night at Roux (659-5020) in Carmel Valley.

There were a lot of reasons to expect big things.

Chef-owner Fabrice Roux, a native of Laon, France, enjoys a quarter century of experience after getting early kitchen work at multiple Michelin-starred spots in Paris.

He later built Joya Restaurant & Lounge in Palo Alto, which earned a recommendation from said Michelin in 2013 for its zesty contemporary Latin dishes like saffron-Spanish rice balls, prawns with chorizo, and blood sausage with caramelized onion and goat cheese.

At the former Vineyard Bistro space on Pilot Road in Carmel Valley, things were cute previously, with its patio spaces and high ceilings and ample windows, but a pro-opening sneak peek revealed it's much improved after fresh paint, a new kitchen, improved outdoor options and a giant redwood community table.  

His fiancé and business partner Jennifer, a former principal, helps run things in a major way, and also loves golf, which helped inspired their move south to the Monterey Peninsula mecca.

She managed all of the redesign and does all the bookkeeping. 

For their part, the menus—particularly the wine, tapas and brunch editions—leap off the page.

Think roasted chiogga beet and organic quinoa salad with wild baby arugula, manchego cheese and sherry vinaigrette ($10) and “mean green” house juice with organic kale, pineapple, cucumber and apple ($6).

Or house-made butternut squash gnocchi with wild mushrooms and sage brown butter ($17), bourguignon-style short-rib risotto ($24) and bacon-wrapped niman ranch pork tenderloin ($23).

Other entrees include tamarin-marinated mary’s chicken with pineapples, raisins and yukon gold potatoes ($22) and olive oil-poached local cod with cranberry beans, tomatoes and chorizo ($25).

And, let me point out, to further uplift expectations, the chef's actual last name is Roux. 

So anticipation was as high as the vaulted roof.

But Roux delivered, with solid execution for an opening evening. (That happened last Saturday; lunch started yesterday.)

Given the wealth of attractive options, and 17 zingy tapas (aka petites assiettes, or petit plates), the dealer's choice, labeled “variety is the spice of life: let the chef create a sampler for you" ($27) appeared the best play.

Lofty expectations were quickly honored with truffled deviled eggs with nice salmon caviar spark, three types of melt-in-the-mouth charcuterie, house pickles, spot-on mini crab cakes, and a foie gras parfait with pomegranate gelée, and tender organic Niman Ranch beef sliders with red wine onion glaze and aged Gruyere.

Yum yum.

More stylish flavor followed.

The "cantimpalitos" mini chorizo corn dogs ($9) scored with texture and spice. The sautéed Watsonville brussels sprouts with applewood smoked bacon and lemon zest ($8) represented well. The sautéed local dino kale salad was small but serviceable ($5.50). 

The Berkshire organic pork aumônière ($11.50) proved another highlight: braised pork with truffled veal jus hide inside an adorable pouch of crispy pastry shell, earning the name, which means "tiny purse."

Two two stunners, though, had to be the yucca fries and blood sausage.

The fries with chipotle aïoli ($6.50) rival the eggplant fries at jeninni kitchen + wine bar for hard-to-fathom fluffiness and creaminess tucked within a thin-and-light crust.

The morcilla, meanwhile, is a sin of comfort, nestled beneath a layer of bubbling goat cheese and harmonizing with the caramelized red onion and toasted almonds ($10). 

There's a reason Roux brought it over from Palo Alto with him.

On the wine front, a sizable list featuring 20 sparklings, 13 Pinots and 45 Cabs among its offerings—ranging from a Stag's Leap Cab ($8/3-ounce pour, $16/6-ounce to a 2008 Opus One ($525/bottle)—provides the depth and curation to stand up to the food. 

There are also sangria and "fauxtail" alternatives, at $8-$9/glass and $27-$33/pitcher.

One of my table mates at the community seating says he'll be back for the classic Spanish paella “surf and turf” with saffron rice, prawns, calamari, chicken, pork chorizo, mussels, bay scallops and pequillo peppers ($43 for two).

I'm aiming for brunch, which starts in about two weeks.

That's when Roux rolls out things like cottage cheese pancakes with organic maple syrup, caramelized apples, bacon and yukon gold potatoes ($12.50); salmon cake salad with pequillo aioli, local mixed greens, roasted shallots topped with dijon vinaigrette ($13.50); 48-hour house-cured brisket hash with fingerling potatoes and fried soft-boiled egg ($15); and chile-flake battered crispy cod with shallot tartar sauce ($11.50). 

The winter squash and caramelized onion galette with sweet onions, butternut squash, aged gruyère and baby arugula topped with sherry vinaigrette ($10.50) sounds good too—not unlike the bottomless peach-and-orange mimosas ($15)—and all at reasonable prices.

My expectations will be higher than I like them, but I hope and trust they'll be met.