Newborn La Bahia has a good thing going thanks to clean food and former Peppers chefs.

Artichokes deserve more creative presentations—including enchiladas.

Devoted cooks deserve more opportunities to start their own restaurants.

With the departure of Jose's Mexican, New Monterey deserves more fresh family-spun Mexican food.

La Bahia Mexican Restaurant (884-5269), which opened earlier this month at 675 Lighthouse Ave. in Monterey, answers all three calls.

Co-owners and co-chefs Gerardo and his Jesus Duenas Sr. run the kitchen while Jesus Jr. takes care of the front of the house.

The chefs both worked for years and years—30 actually—at popular Peppers Mexicali Grill in Pacific Grove, an annual contender for our readers' vote for Best Mexican in Monterey County. 

The abiding feel at Bahia, which means "bay" in Spanish, is of good old-fashioned honesty.

The food, the value, the service and the sum effect just feel genuine, straightforward and sturdy.

I mean, how many spots offer a free margarita or glass of Pinot with any steak dinner?

The five seafood plates includes grilled snapper ranchero in a roasted tomato-pepper sauce ($13.75 with rice and beans), grilled fish tacos ($12.50) and ceviche tostada ($5.50).

Burritos and tacos come constructed with a choice of meats—carnitas chicken, chili verde, al pastor, and carne asada—and start at $5.50 and $2.50.

Carne asana fries with cheese, guac and sour cream (&10.50) leap out from an appetizer run down of daily soups ($4.75), shrimp Caesar ($11.50) and super quesadillas ($10.50).

Two item combos cost $12.75 and rally things like jack and green chile rellenos, red or green enchiladas and chile verde tostadas.

Other specialties range from fajitas ($10-$12.75) to chicken empanizado (aka milanes, as in breaded and lightly fried, $12.75) to flautas ($10.75) to chile Colorado ($13.50).

The spot that once hosted Persian Grill now enjoys tile floors and a peek into a modest kitchen.

Our table tried the artichoke enchilada, an import from Peppers, taco salad with carnitas and chile relleno combo plate.

All were fresh, filling and satisfying.

The chicken mole tamale they sent to the table for us to try after we polished off our plates only reinforced the good vibes and strong values.

Rotating specials and drink discounts also help.