New, promising Giant Artichoke restaurant soft-opens on Cannery Row in Monterey.

You would think a story about Monterey County's known population of mechanical bulls collapsing—from one to none—would be a big, horned, bovine bummer.

It is not.

In the historic, stately and spacious spot where there was once El Mariachi and its wonderfully dangerous bull (and not much else)—and before that Jerseys with its Philly cheesesteaks, Monterey Jack's Fish House and The Captain's Galley with its old-world fish 'n' chips-style stuff—is now Giant Artichoke (643-9524), a classy cousin to the Castroville landmark.

The menu parallels the original spot, so it is similarly vast across breakfast, lunch and dinner, with diner specials, down-home deals, a Wikipedia primer on artichokes and one crucial difference.

Those similarities include jalapeño-and-artichoke dip ($8.50), artichokes pizzas ($8), artichoke samplers ($26.50), artichoke omelets ($11), Castroville rolls ($5.50) and, not least, some of the best deep-fried artichoke hearts in the area, thanks to a tempura-like lightness in the batter ($6.50/half order, or 8-10; $11/full, 18-20). 

The crucial difference: Alfonso Martinez. He was last seen resuscitating landmark but lethargic Rappa's Seafood Restaurant (372-7562) at the end of Fisherman's Wharf. 

But that ended at least partly thanks to the pending sale of Rappa's to the Gilbert's restaurant family that also owns Rappa's neighbor Abalonetti (373-1851) and Beach House at Lovers Point (375-2345).

Martinez will be given room to add  finer dining element to the menu that descends—and shortens—with nightfall and explores lots of creative new artichoke incarnations. Think artichoke-stuffed salmon, artichoke ravioli and natural steaks with artichoke butter. 

For an eater like me, whose been accused of an artichoke fetish, that's sweet mouthwatering music to my ears.

"It's the only vegetable in the world that has this flavor, color, texture," Martinez says. "There are substitutes for other vegetables, but not for artichoke.

"It's like truffle, saffron or caviar, only not as expensive. Especially when fresh—and you know my style is as fresh, sustainable and as natural as possible."

That's definitely what his resume reports: After Cordon Bleu Mexico City he worked with local sourcing leader Dory Ford at Monterey Bay Aquarium and Ventana Inn and served as a sous chef at a farm-to-table Napa capital Mustards Grill with Cindy Pawlcyn. The Aquarium contacts will come in handy when it comes to filling the sizable space—and they're open for breakfast, lunch and dinner as of this three-day weekend. 

That means everything from eight different omelets ($11 each), corned beef hash ($10) and artichoke eggs Benedict ($10) in the morning; to ground Angus or meatless artichoke heart-spinach burgers ($9 with fries or soup each) at lunch; to diablo-style steaks ($13.50-$17.50), Castroville chicken in artichoke and mushroom sauce ($13.50) and artichoke and angel hair pasta ($12.50) by night.

The physical upgrades are dramatic and obvious—or at least they have a dramatic effect despite their humble elements (paint, a new liquor display, new wood floors), which tells you something about how bad it got there for awhile as El Mariachi.

"We had to fix everything," is something I heard from both Salazar and Martinez.

They are also a godsend for an anchor spot on Cannery Row. Owners Juan and Janet Salazar have owned The Giant Artichoke in Castroville (633-3501) for nearly a decade. Janet actually ran it before buying it—and its linchpin fried artichoke recipe—from her sister.

Juan, who also works in produce (mostly strawberries), says he's excited to cater to a different crowd in addition beyond the one that visits on the way in and out of town for artichoke bread, artichoke milkshakes and artichoke tea.

"The most exciting part here is a lot more people to cater to," he says. "A lot of people want to come to Monterey. Here you think of great food."

That's no bull.