Infiltrating a pistachio conference and the best nut-crusted fish dishes in town.

Two years ago I cracked a nut conference.

Truly: In the name of epicurean investigation, I infiltrated a pistachio show at the Monterey Conference Center.

That came to mind last week as news of a major study revealed daily nut eaters had a 20 percent lower death rate than non-eaters.

This comes on top of known research that nut-munching reduces risk of chronic disease such as type 2 diabetes, colon cancer, high blood pressure and heart disease.

At the pistachio conference, I came away with more than a “Get Crackin’” T-shirt.

I learned the California farmer-fueled Paramount Farms has gone global in a major way, especially in the last few years, as chief nut Stewart Resnick and others illuminated, with sales exploding in China, India, and beyond, where P.F. adjusts the roast and seasoning to native tastebuds.

Some other factors are helping the nut bust the best returns of any in the San Joaquin Valley, including slick ads starring Wee Man and Bristol Palin-impregnating Levi Johnston demonstrating ways of opening shells. (Wee does it “dangerously”—he holds the nut against his forehead while a ball machine rockets a shot off his dome; Johnston, snacking behind a bodyguard, “does it with protection.”)

Increasingly apparent health benefits aid the effort more: The ’stacio is the lowest-fat nut going, its fiber has a bunch of upside and those who eat shelled nuts chomp 50 percent less (the work involved and the pile of shell shrapnel have an impact). Meanwhile Resnick, one of the most unnervingly powerful guys around—he’s got control over a big amount of the state’s water and his campaign donations have earned rather attentive ears from U.S. Sen. Diane Feinstein and Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger—has scientists furiously researching its other benefits.

Apparently almonds, walnuts and even the mighty peanut—“It’s not even a nut,” said Pom Wonderful marketing mind and Paramount co-owner Lynda Resnick, “it’s a legume”—are overmatched. When wise chefs like Ted Walter crust their halibut with it, it’s almost unfair.

(Fortunately peanuts, though a legume, have been shown to have the same disease-fighting powers of actual nuts.)

That news, and the fact that my brother farms them in Coalinga, summoned enough of my stateside pride to forgive the fact that Resnick’s Suterra LLC sued the Weekly after we published ingredients in the light brown apple moth spray the pest control firm made and sold to the state for Peninsula drizzling.

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The nut news triggered a search for ingenious nut recipes.

The most enticing included a lineup of 10 healthy formulas ranging from rosemary roasted to quinoa salad with edamame, basil and pine nuts; eight Eastern-leaning items like five-spice peanuts and cashew chicken; and praline truffles and walnut rye bread instructionals from Avner Laskin, the author behind Nuts: More Than 75 Delicious & Healthy Recipes. 

That recipe mongering led to another nut to crack: delicious fish.

Few things in this world are as healthy—and tasty—as nut-crusted fish.

A quick study of standout local seafood spots reveals not too many incorporate tree nuts with fish dishes—at least beyond the kung pao squid ($11.50), walnut prawns ($12.50) and cashew nut shrimp ($12.50) plates at Chinese restaurants like underrated Full Moon (333-1288) in downtown Monterey.

But those that do have some very attractive offerings.

Passionfish in Pacific Grove (655-3311) does smoked trout ceviche tostaditas with a cashew pesto ($8). There’s also a seductive sea scallop with caper-raisin-walnut relish on an artichoke risotto cake ($8) on the appetizer lineup.

One of the signature plates at Old Fisherman’s Grotto (375-4604) is the macadamia crusted halibut ($30), with an Alaskan filet padded with macadamia nuts and panko breading, grilled and topped with tropical fruit salsa and a pineapple citrus sauce.

The almond-encrusted sole is an off-menu treat ($24) at Alvarado Fish & Steak House (717-4468). Snapper ($19) can get nutty too.

Two of the most inspired nutjobs come from one sustainably conscious place, Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar on Cannery Row (372-BOAT): Chef James Waller’s grilled arctic char with kale, grapes, rock shrimp and walnuts in a Cabernet vinaigrette ($26), and a peanut-crusted mahi mahi ($25) with roasted romanesco and orange soy butter.