Jeff Moses has taught me as much about the world of beer, wine and spirits as anyone.
So when I couldn't make it to the Sunday grand tasting finale at the eighth edition of Pebble Beach Food & Wine, I figured it meant an opportunity for him to do some more teaching.
His instructions were simple and simply open: Find me some things that deserve recognition, whether that be trends, techniques or tastes.
He came back with a question: Why do American wine drinkers gravitate toward single varietal wines and not blends?
And he came back with ample evidence why they shouldn't be so singularly focused.
Here are his notes from the giant tasting summit, along with seven of his picks for standout red blends out there now, including one that wasn't at the tasting and isn't out yet but he couldn't resist plugging: his own Graffiti brand, which was just bottled in South Monterey County.
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Gather 300 of the very best wineries in the world under a fashionable tent in Pebble Beach and they tend to showcase their finest and most desirable wines.
Is it by chance the majority of wines offered at this years' PBFW were single varietal?
Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa's Brand Winery, St. Helena's Rombauer's Chardonnay, and Gary Pisoni's Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir had lines of attendees waiting to sample.
Not surprising, since seasoned American wine drinkers are eager to lay their lips on the best single varietals wines, with a lack of excitement to drink exceptional blends, ranging from Crosby-Roamann 2011 reserve blend ($135 a bottle) to 2013 Purple Cowboy Tenacious Red Blend ($10).
We could blame it on the limited imagination of US wine producers over the past few decades for not growing grapes outside the great American grape box, meaning Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, Rieslings, etc.
U.S. wine producers have stayed inside that box because of what they've viewed as a lack of unique geological compositions or not enough calcareous marl and limestone clay. They see it as unacceptable conditions to produce interesting grape varieties used for blending complex and diverse wines.
Or we could blame American retailers who've been reluctant to stock interesting wines consumers don't recognize, can't pronounce, and in turn, probably won't purchase.
Looking at the overall domestic wine market, what's most interesting is that a handful of grapes, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot and the lot have dominated the American wine market for decades despite the fact thousands of grape varieties are available to produce interesting and unique blending wines in America.
Like it or not, a hand full of single varietal wines have commandeered today's marketplace. Whatever mitigating factors that led to this phenomena, it's allowed a glut of Chardonnays, Cabernets and Merlots to flood store shelves, bars and restaurants.
But...
What was truly encouraging at this year's PBFW grand tastings was the number of quality blends offered by both U.S. and international wineries, often outstanding reds poured right alongside their single varietal flagships wines.
American wineries are apparently stepping up their game, growing unique grape varieties like Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, including Italian and Spanish varieties. This allows U.S. winemakers to utilize the proven and traditional templates of European blends like Bordeaux (called Claret here in the U.S.), Rhone Blends of France and traditional Spanish Wines styles like Rioja.
Additionally, when talented winemakers have more grape varieties maturing in their barrels, they're encouraged by vineyard owners to blend wines befitting their desired flavor profiles for specific demographics. The benefits of blending can add complexity to a troubled growing year or a weak turnout from a single varietal by enhancing its expression, aromas, color, texture and body, making it into a well-rounded, interesting wine.
Look for U.S. wineries to produce more high-quality and value-priced blended wines in the near future. The increased production of blends stems from the overall wine consumer looking for affordably priced wines along with the Millennial generation searching for what’s new on the block.
Here are seven
Crosby-Roamann • 2011 Reserve Red Blend - Napa • $135 bottle
A proprietary blend composed of Cabernet Sauvignon from Mt. Veeder and Rutherford, and Merlot from Oak Knoll District, fermented in a stainless steel tank for 21 days followed by malolactic fermentation in barrel. Aged in all new French oak barrels for 20 months, and bottled without fining or filtration
Trinity Hill • 2012 Gimblett Gravels 'The Gimblett' - New Zealand • $20 bottle
Made from a blend of five varieties. This allows the winemaker to blend the best wine for each given season. In the cooler years Merlot will normally be predominant. The Cabernet family gives structure and fresh aromatics. Petit Verdot and Malbec help with complexity, density and color.
Girl & Dragon • 2013 Purple Cowboy Tenacious Red blend - California Red Wine • $10 bottle
Dark red with hints of purple. Vibrant aromas of crushed red berries and cherries, notes of cola and cinnamon, and a hint of earthiness. Berry flavors explode in the mouth with cinnamon and cassis in the mid-palate leading to slight cocoa powder tannins on the finish. A very rich, full-bodied style.
Scheid Vineyard • 2009 Claret - Red Blend - Monterey County • $65 bottle
Bordeaux blend with a full-bodied, rich flavor. Using the classic Bordeaux varietals, this 2009 Claret is characterized by concentrated aromas of black fruit, currant and cassis with notes of vanilla and mocha. The dense flavors and balanced tannins integrate beautifully for a long, layered finish.
Kir-Yianne Winery • 2013 Paranga - Red Blend - Greece • $15 bottle
The fruity character composed of cherry and raspberry aromas, typical of a well-ripened Xinomavro, the sweet spices of Syrah and the rich body of Merlot are combined with the the velvety texture and the lingering aftertaste.
Mulderbosch Winery • 2013 Faithful Hound - Red Blend - South Africa • $25 bottle
A classic Bordeaux blend. Aromas of ripe blackberries, cinnamon and hints of peppermint characterize the nose. The wine is full and round, and tapers off with a long finish of spice.
GRAFFITI wine • 2013 Red Blend - Central Coast, Monterey County • $10 bottle
An interesting blend offering fresh aromas of bright red fruits, giving way to subtler notes of vanilla and spice. The soft and round texture is filled with flavors of fresh cherry, raspberry, strawberry and chocolate, with light tannins at the finish.

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