A reinvention is well underway in Carmel-by-the-Sea, as Nico's has become Enzo Ristorante Italiano (624-6545) and stirred in new drinks, menu items and more.
The name change—and a little more buzz around the building—comes as Enzo Pagano bought out his 15-year partner and former restaurant namesake Nico Mavris.
Mavris, who opened 20 years back, left the area for other projects.
Now Pagano is aiming to bring back the lively vibe that made the just-off-Ocean-Avenue spot more of a social hub in years past.
"I'm a true Italian and it's a true Italian experience," he says. "It looks like a small spot in Tuscany or Rome.
"A place where you can hang out, play cards, drink wine, talk about soccer, not worrying about everything wrong in the world."
The overhauled interior includes a new wine counter and builds upon a slick remodel that took place two years ago.
They're also putting a focus on wine cocktails like the Sunny Carmel ($15), with martini elements, Aperol and Prosecco.
The menu has its share of inviting entries, after an influx of new items, though the ongoing demand for the crab ravioli means that isn't going anywhere.
The dishes are conjured by the same core kitchen team that's been working together for 20 years, including lead cooks Palemon Zaveche and Isias Alonzo.
Appetizers include sautéed clams in wine lemon sauce ($17) and gulf prawns in a proprietary Rosé sauce ($15).
Lunch offerings feature sandwiches like the "artigiano" sandwich with chicken breast, mozzarella, grilled eggplants ($14) and salads like the "deliziosa" with arugula, pears and fennel in a simple dressing ($14).
Flatbread pizzas like the Napoletana with anchovies, capers and black olives ($14) also appear on the menu, as does an indulgent lamb rib rosmarino ($34) and pollo Castroville with fresh artichoke hearts and a light fondue.
Enzo sits on San Carlos between Ocean and Seventh. Hours are noon-3pm and 5-9pm.

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