Banderas Burger
There are people who love to have their senses scorched. And there are chefs out there who find it challenging to bring heat – high, hard, smoking fastballs of blazing chilies. But it’s far too easy to get carried away, to create a firestorm that leaves only cinders in its wake.
The kitchen crew at Wave Street Cafe in Monterey take a more restrained approach. While they build the Banderas burger from pepper jack, chipotle aioli and a patty crusted in both black pepper and jalapeño, that rugged, backyard savor of the burger remains. The gush of sweetness from slices of tomato comes safely through, as does the waif-like malty rasp of crisped red onion.
Yet it still brings the heat, only under control and with hues that vary – flickering sting of jalapeño, the sharp, earthy clench of pepper and that smoky veil of aioli.
The spice builds and lingers, but never erupts. And so you are left with a good old messy American burger, one the bun might struggle to contain.
They don’t show the same amount of moderation when stacking the sandwich, but for people who enjoy dripping burgers, that’s just fine.
WAVE STREET CAFE, 550 Wave St., Monterey. 718-8171, wavestreetcafe.com
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