Spirited and clever, a newly released sparkler from Scratch is ready for some fun.

The 2017 Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine from Scratch wants a good time. It wants to be around gaiety. It wants to re-enact party scenes from The Great Gatsby – wild jazz and flappers splashing into the pool.

You know this from the moment it’s stopper pops. The wine is eager, spilling juicy golden apple, frisky pear cider and more tropical fruits on the nose. This lively appeal continues when sipped, but with a bit of flourish – what was once known as making an entrance. Brisk and bubbly, the 2017 strolls to the palate clothed in a soft floral drape, with hints of minerality and toasted bread. This gentility lasts only a moment, as the wine very quickly yanks off its stoll and pirouettes across the palate in a lively manner, tossing crisp apple and bright citrus streamers. Yet it’s not a simple wine. Intrigue develops as you glimpse wrinkles of guava and an impression of lychee. There’s a wisp of saltgrass from the distance, as well – a clever wine, masking its depth with perky fruit.

The details? Chardonnay. Methode champenoise. Clinking glasses.

SCRATCH WINES, Dolores between Ocean and Seventh, Carmel. 320-0726, scratchwines.com