Wave Street Café

If the Wave Street Café keeps making me happy as it has on my first five visits, it will win my patronage well beyond the publication of this review.

One reason: Of the seven different dishes I’ve tried so far, there’s not one I wouldn’t order again. Then there’s the fact that it’s on the Rec Trail where I jog, stroll or bike a couple times a week. Atmosphere? I like its warm Spanish courtyard feel – soothing, yellow-brown stucco walls, photos of old Monterey, arched doorways, wood beams, plants and flowers in a patio shaded by a leafy pergola. All while runners, walkers and bikers stream past the backdrop of Monterey Bay.

It debuted Sept. 9, replacing Trailside Cafe with a similar menu. Its owners were founding partners in Trailside in the late ’90s before selling a decade later. They also run increasingly popular Googie Grill in Seaside.

I started with the classic eggs Benedict ($12.95) – my litmus test for breakfast joints. A slight lemony tang and buttery creaminess in the hollandaise sauce is what I hope for. Chef Elid Hernandez and sous chef David Romero, who make it from scratch daily, nailed it: yolks sufficiently runny, whites adequately firm, a toasty crisp English muffin – not rubbery.

Next time was with my wife on a late Saturday morning, too cool and overcast to dine on the patio. She ordered the crab cake Benedict ($16.95). My choice was Querida’s corned beef hash and eggs ($13.95). The tender, slightly caramelized corned beef, bell peppers, onions and potatoes come topped with two poached eggs and the house hollandaise. I ate the whole thing (and swore off eating for the rest of the day). Loved every bite.

Wave Street’s tasty breakfast potatoes ($4.95 a la carte), the main ingredient for the hash, are included with all the breakfast dishes except the sweet ones. They scream with flavor because of their crispy-browned-on-all-sides exterior, grilled onions and red peppers and seasoning kept simple to let the natural flavors speak – just salt, pepper and parsley.

Speaking of seasoning, Wifey wasn’t in love with her crab cake Benedict because of the spicy hotness her sensitive taste buds detected. She wasn’t sure if the crab cake or the hollandaise was the culprit. My taste buds detected nothing. We asked our very attentive server Marcelino. He reported that the chef does add a dash of Tabasco sauce to the hollandaise.

There are nine Benedict choices, ranging in price from $12.95 to $16.95. Most are the typical versions you often find in brunch joints. The most notable is the Toluca Benedict ($14.95), which features spicy chorizo, fresh jalapeño and avocado.

Our next visit, a warm, sunny Sunday, we sat in the patio area. The place was bustling (a 20-minute wait) and alive with singing and solid guitar playing by Jack Olver, a regular Sunday act. His jazzy take on American standards and pop favorites like “Yesterday” made a good day a bit more special.

We did do our usual routine of sharing a sweet dish and a savory one, starting with the Tillamook cheddar burger ($13.95) – lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, smoked bacon, melted cheddar, basil aioli on a brioche bun. A solid thumbs up. Another burger is the black bean chipotle version ($12.95), with lettuce, grilled onion, grilled red and green bell peppers, Swiss and chipotle aioli.

Any sandwich or burger includes a choice of fries or green salad. We chose fries and were glad we did because they brought happiness to our fry-loving selves. Fresh, hand cut potatoes cooked in clean, sufficiently hot oil is the key (or an extra $1.50 add beer battered onion rings or sweet potato fries).

Our other choice, the Palermo Bakery brioche French toast ($9.50), went over splendidly (add strawberries for $1.50 or caramelized bananas and pecans for $1.95). Four other sweet treats go $7.95-$10.50; nine choices from the eggs, omelets and scramble section $8.50-$13.95.

One day I made a return trip to try Wave Street’s New York steak sandwich ($15.95). It turned out to be a grilled, tender, juicy strip, served on toasted ciabatta with grilled mushrooms and onions, melted provolone and basil aioli. Bathroom scale be damned, I left not a crumb. A hunk of carnivore heaven for $16: not bad. Ten more sandwich choices include some old faves like the BLT ($11.95) or tuna salad ($12.95) and original creations like the roasted vegetable panini ($13.50) and the calamari steak sandwich ($13.95).

Luscious, tempting big bowl salads were something else I felt the need to report on. I tried the Cobb ($13.95). A totally satisfying meal, generously portioned and full of good stuff, I couldn’t quite finish it. There are seven other entree salads including the Caesar ($10.95), the beets and greens ($13.50), the grilled salmon ($15.95) and the shrimp Louis ($15.95).

I’m always on the lookout for places that bring comfort and make me feel at home. I’ve found several in 20 years. Wave Street makes for one more.

WAVE STREET CAFÉ 550 Wave St., Monterey (lower level). 8am-3pm Mon-Fri; 8am-4pm Sat-Sun. 718-8171, www.wavestreetcafe.com