Porter’s in the Forest

A lot has changed in the Del Monte Forest since 1986.

Like the Hilltop Course, the first golf course built by the Northern California Golf Association, changing its name to Poppy Hills, or the AT&T Pro-Am shifting away from the rolling fairways and forested greens. But the biggest changes came this spring with a complete overhaul of the course and, more importantly to appetites like mine, the transformation of Porter’s Bar and Grill from a clubhouse eatery into a full-on California artisanal restaurant.

Chef Johnny De Vivo was the executive chef at famed Casanova in Carmel, dishing up upscale French and Italian fare using locally sourced ingredients. But he wanted more normal hours and creative control, so he helped build Porter’s from the ground up.

I met my mother on a recent morning, her in a kimono for a tea ceremony nearby. She went for the vegetarian omelette ($12) with mushrooms, spinach, sweet zucchini, green onion and tomato served with chunky oven-roasted potatoes. She was more than happy with her hefty and airy Glaum egg dish and remarked, “It’s not too salty, I can bring my friends here.” She has a mean palate. This is a major compliment.

I ordered the eggs Benedict ($13) served with Black Forest ham and avocado and potatoes. I enjoyed the bennie thoroughly, but I also ordered the corned beef hash ($13) because I wanted to try more items. The hash came out in a hot cast iron skillet with two fried eggs served over crispy hash browns and corned beef – and not just any corned beef, but one with chunks of meat you can fork into. Like the bacon, the corned beef is made in house, which goes for just about everything on the menu. Other items I would have loved to try include ricotta and fresh blueberry pancakes ($9.50) with lemon creme, maple syrup and house-churned butter, and the California breakfast burrito ($12) loaded with chorizo, potatoes, cilantro, bell peppers, avocado and salsa verde. We enjoyed the views of the golf course, the welcoming vibe and looked forward to returning soon.

We did – a few hours later – with my mother’s tea-ceremony friends, all dressed in kimonos. (Totally normal, I know.) The ladies ordered drafts from the craft beer list: a Scrimshaw pilsner ($7), Devotion Belgian pale ale ($8) and Lagunitas IPA Maximus ($6), served in their appropriate glassware. I selected a glass of Argiolas Vermentino ($11) that soared thanks to citrus notes, cooking herbs and bright acidity – and complimented blistered padron peppers ($10) pan-seared with summer corn, cherry tomatoes, garlic and a hint of vinegar.

Our orders included the local lingcod fish and chips ($16), beer battered with watercress, green garlic and two housemade dips (a buttermilk dressing and a harissa aioli); the California club ($13) featuring 300-degree roast turkey breast, tomato jam, bacon and avocado on country toast; and fried all-natural Jidori chicken ($17) with sauteed kale, carrot slaw, chicken gravy and smoked Gouda mac-n-cheese.

While the ladies shared these plates of epic portions and presentation – and I can’t remember the last time I had turkey that good – I noshed on the Porter’s house salad ($11) with pecans, apples, grapes and Gorgonzola tossed in a Champagne vinaigrette. These ladies happen to be culinary wizzes – you learn how to cook in Japan at a very young age – and were surprised by the good food they experienced next to a golf course. “Oishi,” or delicious in Japanese, was heard throughout.

Other inspiring signs: In addition to curing their own meats, they bake all their breads and make their own pickles, including kimchi. They also partake in the Never Ever 3, a USDA program that ensures meat comes from animals that have not been treated with antibiotics and hormones or fed animal byproduct. They also do fresh cocktails like the watermelon garden ($13) with Peligroso tequila, housemade watermelon agave syrup, cucumber and lime juice or the blue poppy ($13) with Nolet gin, lemongrass, blueberries and a splash of Prosecco. The drinks go beautifully with a wrap-around patio and a sunny day, or the firepits and heat lamps.

The lineup of special events has also been impressive. Recently, North Coast Brewing Company poured four beers while guests enjoyed small bites paired by De Vivo; a portion of the proceeds went to the nonprofit kids’ golf foundation Youth in Course. They’ve hosted winemakers’ dinners, offer later hours and happy hour specials during Monday Night Football and feature La Luna all October with wine and tapas ($25) 6:30-9pm every Wednesday. Every Thursday is Sip, Savor and Support ($25) 5-7pm through October 2014, with Silvestri wines and more small bites. A winemaker’s dinner with Rutherford Wines comes Nov. 13.

Still, the magnetic thing happening is the progressive, smart and flavorful food from De Vivo, like the braised short rib poutine fries ($10) with a Müenster cheese au gratin. He’s doing what he wants and having a good time doing it. The results are a fun revelation.

PORTER’S IN THE FOREST Poppy Hills Golf Course, 3200 Lopez Road, Pebble Beach. •6am-close (6:30-7pm) • 622-8239, poppyhillsgolf.com