Mulligan Public House

Mulligan Public House might just be the classiest dive bar I’ve ever seen, and yet it’s not really a dive bar. It has an extremely laid-back, neighborhood feel (especially for Carmel), but on closer examination the dark, wooden and brick walls have fancy copper accents with straw pressed into them, and the new long bar and dimly lit lights are custom-designed. The tight-knit team from Brophy’s Tavern relocated and created Mulligan when their bar at Dolphin Inn was sold and the former Le St. Tropez spot came up for grabs, and it’s been a hit from the start.

With seven TVs broadcasting sports and a noticeably eclectic mix of music ranging from The Doors to Taylor Swift, I couldn’t help but feel surprised one bustling Saturday night to see celebrity-like figures squeezing toward the crowded bar – men in suits, women in long mink coats. Granted, it was the Saturday night of the AT&T Pebble Beach Pro-Am, but overall it was still a unique sight in a bar with the distinctive vibe of low-key regulars.

Sitting outside by a toasty gas fire sipping 2015 Frontera Cabernet ($9) added to the impression that this is the type of place for beer and cocktails as God intended (and whiskey, of which Mulligan’s may have the best selection in Carmel). Not to mention the house-cured bacon and beer flight ($18): Firestone 805 with honey cayenne bacon, Firestone Luponic Distortion IPA with black pepper bacon and Deschutes porter with maple chipotle bacon. The musty wine had clearly been sitting open for at least a day. Most members of the rowdy patio crowd held beers; a middle-aged gentleman got to dancing around pulling his shirt up to offer us a show.

We were otherwise occupied by food, though, such as the delicious nachos with chicken ($13). Torn between starters like sesame-crusted ahi tuna ($13), melted brie with apples ($12) and Dubliner mac and cheese ($9), nachos seemed like a great base for drinks and easy to share. Fresh tortilla chips made a crunchy home for melted cheese, pinto beans and tender chicken, topped with flavorful guacamole, pico de gallo, pickled jalapeños and a refreshing scoop of cooling sour cream. Though a simple bar food to some, nachos can often be a relatively healthy group choice that’s also filling, and having yummy ones is important. Check.

Despite being tempted by Brophy’s originals like the Philly cheesesteak sandwich ($12) or the new namesake Mulligan stew ($15), I couldn’t resist the lamb burger ($16). A hearty helping of blackened meat cooked medium (and a little longer than it was meant to) still pleased the taste buds with tzatziki aioli, a heap of feta and the fresh pile of lettuce, tomato and red onion on a big, soft sesame bun. Side choices include soup, salad, fries or mashed potatoes; I probably wouldn’t try the mashed potatoes again. Plain and underseasoned, they almost tasted boxed.

Nevertheless, the atmosphere was fun and I was back again another weekend to split dinner with a friend. We were on the earlier side of the night, and the clientele ranged from 8 years old to 80.

We opted for salmon tacos with a side of French onion soup ($16) and the “Tree Huggers” pizza ($14). At first bite, jalapeños jumped out from the tacos, followed by a hit of red onion mixed with guac, pico de gallo and crispy cabbage. The salmon brought a luxurious touch, with just the right balance of fish to keep the flour tortillas tidy enough to hold gracefully.

Award-worthy French onion soup came loaded with caramelized onions and subtle bread, garnished with a healthy portion of gruyere cheese. My friend believed it was the best she’d ever had, a crowd-pleaser for sure. It was definitely up there, with a deep savoriness that could only come from a very long simmer and very good seasoning.

Onto the pizza, a vegetarian’s dream stacked with mushrooms, artichokes and black olives. More cheese than sauce topped the bread, but this seemed like a strategic move to deliver veggie-holding sturdiness. Each bite remained clean and easy to eat, with a nose of expertly charred crust and a mouthful of cheesy vegetable goodness.

Dinner and drinks aren’t the only attractions at a joint where brunch rules. Sizeable portions of comfort food reign in the AM, with soulful dishes like Mulligan’s Benedict with fried chicken and grilled ham ($14), smoked salmon benedict with avocado ($16) and the chicken fried steak with eggs, hash browns, toast and country sausage gravy ($15). Brunch wouldn’t be the same without half a chicken and waffles ($14), nor without drinks such as “Bacon Bloody Maria” ($12), Rumchata ($9) and the “Manmosa,” a pint glass twist on the classic with orange-infused vodka, champagne and OJ ($11). Tacos for $1.25 happens at 4pm Tuesdays; happy hour is all night Wednesdays.

So thankfully a Carmel pillar is back, with good food, interesting drinks and a friendly atmosphere – bigger, better and more centrally located.

MULLIGAN PUBLIC HOUSE Dolores between Seventh and Ocean, Carmel. 10am-close Mon-Fri; 9am-close Sat-Sun (kitchen closes at 10pm daily). 250-5910, mulliganpublichouse.com