Monarch Pub

By 1969, things were looking up in Pacific Grove. Over the previous decades, the city had elected their first female mayor, John Steinbeck had moved to town and an ordinance had even been passed making it illegal to molest butterflies – heady stuff.

Still, America’s Last Hometown remained the state’s driest hometown. The public sale of alcohol was forbidden until the late ’60s. And for years after, city leaders were loathe to allow establishments where people might spend more on booze than food. So with the opening of Monarch Pub and Restaurant, 2018 became perhaps the most significant year in the city’s parched history.

Palpable excitement followed the announcement of owner Paul Whitecross’ plans. When he opened the doors in April without any marketing other than a Facebook post, people rushed down and waited for him to turn the key. Since then, Monarch has been bustling.

Whitecross (a native of Birmingham and also owner at Britannia Arms), gave the place a British theme. The menu, however, seems dominated by American bar food favorites: appetizers like spicy chicken wings ($10.95) and beer-battered artichoke hearts ($8.95); a list of burgers and sandwiches like the BLT, reuben or turkey ($9.95-$11.75); and a few salads.

Perhaps of more importance, the drink menu offers over 20 beers (six of them on draft but nothing too crafty here), including seven U.K. imports. A few cocktails also come with a Brit twist, like the Ex-Pat with Johnny Walker Red, lime and Angostura bitters ($10). Zesty citrus dims the intense smokiness of the bitters, bringing a fresh rush to match its bright orange appearance.

Being an ex-pat myself, I had some hopes for the list of British staples. No curry could be found on the menu, but a handful of other old country gems could: the banger sandwich ($12.95), scampi and chips ($11.95), a fish and prawn combo ($15.95), and last but definitely not least – the highlight for Brits and Americans alike – the beer-battered fish and chips ($14.95/one piece; $17.95/two pieces).

The latter was good. Great, even. Monarch doesn’t pretend to be trendy or complicated. The beer batter on the fish showed off delicate bready and yeasty flavors and a crunchy texture without grease or crumbling. Alongside thick, tender steak cut fries that brought nostalgia for the homeland, the dish was exactly as it was meant to be: simple and delicious. Add some malt vinegar, ketchup and lush homemade tartar sauce, and we’re talking perfection.

I couldn’t leave without sampling Monarch’s take on American fare, namely the signature (happily grass-fed) burger ($11.75). Hearty, yes – though for charging $1 extra, the onions could have been much more caramelized.

As for dessert, I couldn’t resist the chocolate martini. The minty and cocoa-y goodness wrapped up the meal quite fittingly: slightly tawdry, super tasty.

That’s what taking part in history should taste like.

MONARCH PUB AND RESTAURANT 617 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove •11:30am-11:00pm daily • facebook.com/themonarchpubpacificgrove