Melville Tavern wins with warmth and smart takes on classic food stuff.

Near the end of last year, Melville Tavern opened all friendly, warm and welcoming, like a fast friend you wonder how you went without. Recent visits have rewarded me with great meals, good cheer and a place teeming with regulars, which makes for, yes, new friends.

Add one more regular.

During the 17 years the place was called Santa Lucia Café I liked the clean brick façade, the rustic interior and its exposed rafters, the spacious open kitchen, the wood-burning pizza oven, the long bar and picture windows that look out onto Griffin Plaza. Melville still has all that plus some new touches (artwork and lighting) that add a cozy quaintness.

Food quality was not the problem at the old place. There was just something lacking in the vibe. Melville is different.

It was refreshing to get an enthusiastic response from our personable bartender Jesse when we asked about her favorite dishes on the menu. Jesse took us through it, describing her favorites with the zeal of a true foodie.

“I do like to eat,” said the 20-something CSU Monterey Bay molecular biology student, as she worked the bar like an old pro greeting customers by name and chatting with everyone. A survey revealed five of the nine at the bar were regulars.

We started with the salmon tacos ($8.95) – blackened salmon, cabbage, avocado, herb crema – from the list of seven starters. All the ingredients quaked with flavor. Even the corn tortillas were outstanding enough to betray homemade quality, although they’re from a producer from San Leandro called Mi Rancho.

We also ordered the housemade meatballs ($5.95), one of seven rotating happy hour specials weekdays 4-6:30pm. Two plump spheroids of tenderness come with toasted bread, a rich marinara sauce and Parmesan cheese. Another tempting happy hour choice was the pizza ($7.95) – roasted garlic, Jack cheese, cherry tomato and arugula. Red and white wines are available during happy hour for $5; domestic beers $3. (Same goes for wine and beer of the week, all the time.) Also available any time is a rotating selection of six craft beers on tap, like the Lagunitas cappuccino stout ($6) or the Kona Longboard ($6), as well as a big selection, over 30, of bottled IPAs, wheats, white ales, ambers, brown ales, stouts, porters and lagers, from $4 to $8. A couple of the ales are gluten-free.

Our next round of eats included the blackened shrimp salad ($14.95) starring proudly house-made green goddess dressing. Avocado, grapefruit and pistachios add potent taste and texture. Skewer each ingredient with your fork – including the cherry tomato and cucumber, as suggested by our attentive bartender – and you get an explosive flavor combo.

We also tried the lamb burger ($13.95) with feta cheese, roasted red peppers, cucumber, yogurt sauce, lettuce and tomato. Excellent, but the tavern burger ($11.95) I tried on an earlier visit is still my fave because of the caramelized onions, cheddar cheese and herb mayonnaise. (My philosophy: caramelized onions on everything!) I’ve yet to try the green chili cheeseburger ($12.95) with roasted green chilies, Monterey Jack and cheddar but I hear it’s a must.

On another occasion I tried the duck sandwich ($14.95) with cherry compote, pickled red onion, arugula and black pepper mayo. Gourmet to the max and further evidence that this place wins in the sandwich department (they’re all served with a choice of French fries, sweet potato fries or salad). Paris Bakery supplies all bread items except for the pizza dough, which is made on the premises daily.

A Tuesday evening dinner date with the wife saw us trying the iceberg lettuce wedge salad ($7.95). Two wedges per serving makes it perfectly shareable for two and a very tasty yet light way to get the party started and conserve stomach space for other stuff. On the heavier side, I felt I had to try the house chili ($9.95) topped with cornbread and honey butter. Chili is my thing – cook-off champ… never mind. Anyway, it had just the right amount of kick for my liking and a well-balanced bean-to-meat ratio. It’s hearty enough to make it a meal.

My entrée choice was the pork shank ($18.95) with polenta and broccoli; hers the shrimp and sausage rigatoni ($17.95) with spinach, tomato cream sauce and basil. We had to do a switcheroo because the hot Italian sausage made the sauce overly spicy for her tender taste buds. I was happy sampling both but she ended up a bit disappointed because, although she liked the pork shank, her mouth was set for pasta. Portions are so generous we took half of each dish home.

Near the East Village Coffee Lounge, the location is another definite plus, a couple blocks off Monterey’s main drag. I also love that it’s called a tavern. It gives it a certain romance and accessibility. When I found out why Ling chose the name Melville I liked it even more. It’s in reference to Herman Melville’s quote: “If you get nothing better out of the world, get a good dinner out of it at least.” An appropriate sentiment for this laid-back, come-as-you-are kind of place where friends meet, for the first time or otherwise.

MELVILLE TAVERN 484 Washington St., Monterey. 4pm-10pm Mon-Thu; 11am-10pm Fri; 10am-10pm Sat-Sun. 643-9525, www.melvilletav.com.