Jacks Monterey

Once upon a time, not too many months ago, the lobby of the Portola Hotel had some comfy chairs for passersby and those willing to grab a drink in the dimly lit bar next door and bring them out for a view. A beautiful area filled with natural light and real trees, it was the type of space that inspires me to walk over with some wine and people-watch Monterey visitors strolling around.

Since April, the place has been transformed and is now home to an expansive dining room. The bar and restaurant is still Jacks Monterey, but with a gorgeous, newly-renovated space that’s much more open for the world to see (and be tempted by).

A multitude of tables spread across the airy room with modern tones and accents like pink chairs and one long, curving bench. Inside the bar, which was once quite old-fashioned, now appears a sparkling new contemporary lounge with a huge tiled fireplace and an enormous well-lit bar. Jacks has been upgraded in the way many modern homes have been: Where there used to be walls, everything is now free-flowing and connected.

The menu has a new look too. Executive Chef Danny Abbruzzese delivers a large and mouth-watering list of interesting and sustainable meals all day, like fried green tomatoes ($9), quiche florentine with Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog ($14) and a line-caught swordfish BLT ($14) at lunch. For dinner, dishes come solo or share size, like veal cheeks with celery root puree and citrus slaw ($17/solo; $32/share), diver scallops three ways ($22; $40) or “Mama’s Eggplant Parmesan” ($14; $26).

The choices made for a tough lunch decision, but I was craving steak and the filet mignon sandwich ($18) called to me. Thick, hearty slices of tender meat arrived on a luxuriously cheesy roll infused with chives. An important note: Abbruzzese and company bake their own bread to order, a luxury for eaters and a smart way for Jacks to limit both costs and food waste. Complemented by fried onions and Point Reyes blue cheese, not to mention the savory jus which had soaked into the bread, this was, simply put, one fine sandwich.

Adding to the impressiveness was a small detail on the delicious side salad. Though the greens themselves were tasty, the fresh and pungent balsamic vinaigrette is the first I’ve had that can be compared to my mom’s.

As I enjoyed the peaceful afternoon, my friendly server offered a taste of one of the concoctions he was brewing behind the bar. Jacks has a $2,000 blender, which he explained is able to juice a whole cucumber or even a lime with the rind on. The cucumber, lime and mint agave elixir was more than a little delicious – so much so that I inhaled it, and he graciously topped me off. Exciting cocktails (even virgin) feature heavily into the new menu, with fun beverages like the mango mule with ginger beer and cucumber or the watermelon agua fresca with coconut water and a hint of jalapeño (all $5 virgin, plus $7 for a kick). Being right next to Peter B’s Brewpub deepens the bar’s options, because lines have been assembled to run craft beer straight from the source, including Peter B’s Belly Up Blonde Ale, Ford Ord Wheat and Legend of Laguna IPA ($8/each). Wine lovers need not fear – draft wines appear here as well, like 10 Span Pinot Noir ($10), Simi Cabernet ($11) and OZV Zinfandel ($11).

Excited to return for an early Friday dinner, I walked in to find the bar lively around the roaring fireplace. The dining room was a little less packed, but it wasn’t yet 6pm. Though Jacks doesn’t currently offer a happy hour, the happy hour crowd had found their way there anyway.

I wanted something fresh, but also something filling. This led me a starter of red butter lettuce salad ($11; $19) and an entree of Pajaro Pastures goat moussaka ($19; $28).

On a foundation of big, crunchy butter lettuce leaves, the salad came appointed with California oranges and grapefruit, Shropshire blue cheese, a good serving of sliced avocado and orange poppy seed dressing. The dressing was even better than the balsamic, and brought out the best from the citrus fruits and lush, tangy cheese. The avocado’s ripeness elevated things further, and I would stop by anytime for another one of these bowls and maybe throw on a protein for a filling entree (or maybe get the share size).

The goat moussaka elicited mixed feelings, since I loved the rich and earthy goat flavor and spices that shined through on the eggplant mixture, but did not care for a tart lemon taste that could’ve been a little more subtle. The potato and chèvre crust felt like a soft, yummy cloud in my mouth, but the béchamel sauce got a little lost in the combination. This dish was about the size of a cup, so it did not seem worth $19.

Still, everything else was so good that I wouldn’t skip a beat in returning for more. With so many memorable drinks, well-sourced food and welcoming ambiance, you can catch me by the fireplace with a fun beverage and a quick bite any given day or night.

JACKS MONTEREY 2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. •11:30am-11pm daily. • 649-7830, portolahotel.com/jacks-monterey