Fin + Field

Fin + Field can be easy to overlook. It’s much harder to forget. Housed in the freshly renovated Marriott Hotel lobby, this new restaurant led by Chef Samuel Santos has some of the best deals in town for well-priced food that’s elegant, delicious and cooked beautifully.

On my first visit the menu looked great, with tons of locally-sourced features like chilled oysters ($13) and Monterey Bay calamari ($12), Petaluma Farms barbecue chicken flatbread ($12) and salt-roasted Coke Farm beet salad ($10). Other eye-catching mentionables included Strauss Family Farms grass-fed beef burger ($15), Monterey Wheat beer battered rock cod ($15) and the chef’s blue-ribbon clam chowder with smoky bacon and local leeks ($6/cup; $10/bread bowl).

My friend and I were starving and wanted something quick, so opted right away for an appetizer we agreed on: the calamari ($12). A long, elegant plate of tubes and tentacles came with housemade spicy marinara that was tempting enough to lick from the bowl. Bright with fresh tomatoes, the sauce was half the appeal, though the calamari itself was fried delicately enough that it wasn’t greasy. A crowd-pleaser for sure. Despite the price for this pretty simple starter, the large portion of the “shareable” plate and similar prices of the rest of the menu compensated.

The “old school” eggplant parmesan ($15) called my name, and I’m glad I listened. What seemed to be similarly fresh marinara, like the squid’s without the extra kick of spice, provided a tangy base for lightly fried eggplant and ramini mozzarella. Fresh basil scattered on top brought the dish some color and pizazz.

For our next taste I was feeling torn between Mary’s house-roasted turkey BLT ($12) and the white cheddar grilled cheese ($10), which inspired the unanimous decision to try both. The BLT was stuffed to the brim with turkey, bacon, avocado, tomato and lettuce, and the fries delivered a fast-food-like thin and salty crunch. The only problem arose from the overly oiled white bread, which was only out-oiled by the grilled cheese. The cheese of our second choice was pretty mild and unremarkable, and its casing seemed to be Texas toast that came way too greasy. The tomato soup definitely helped, with full flavor and subtle creaminess, but the oil threw things for me.

I found a few gems on another evening, this time a girls’ night at the bar. Actually, the bar itself is quite a gem: an exquisite collection of smooth, caramel-colored geodes lit from below. Other treasures included everything we tried on the wine list, like the robust Hahn Pinot Noir ($14), scattered with strawberry aromas and an almost woodsy pepper. Two luxurious Cabs competed for a place in my heart: The Franciscan from Napa ($14) wooed with gripping tannins and a tart bite, but the Paso Robles Estancia Cabernet ($11) won out with smooth complexity and light smoky undertones. (They also feature some clever cocktails like The Revolver, with bourbon, Kahlua and orange bitters ($11).

The wine was very drinkable, and before we knew it we needed a snack. Nourishment came in fish taco form ($14), which we agreed were some of the best we’d had. Good-size strips of tilapia melted in the mouth with a smooth guacamole. Pickled red onions and farmer’s cheese added a pleasing touch, especially with a squeeze of roasted lime.

Interestingly enough, I spotted a guy a few seats down chomping on the turkey BLT that had previously disappointed me. I edged a little closer until I was standing right there asking him if he liked it (he did), because his didn’t look oily at all – it looked perfect. Maybe whoever oiled the bread on the line my first visit was having a bad day. Maybe they were new. Maybe they were overwhelmed. I don’t like making excuses for chefs because I believe it should be done right every time, but as someone who has hung out in many a restaurant kitchen, I do understand things can occasionally slip by. Besides, everything else was so good that it helps the heart forgive.

Another reason to go back involves Fin + Field’s brunch buffet, which is $22 – but $11 for locals each Sunday from 6:30am-11:30am. Offerings include an omelet station, breakfast meats, biscuits and gravy, breakfast tacos and cereal. (The normal breakfast service – with items like blueberry pancakes, $10, and “country” eggs Benedict, $11, also presents hearty values.)

Lunch is the same menu as dinner, which means dinner prices are remarkably affordable. The menu jumps around from the baby bella mushroom flatbread with fontina, organic arugula and Gilroy garlic cream sauce ($15) and the pork carnitas with fried egg on a japapeño pepper roll ($14) to the grilled New York steak with watercress salad, fries and chimichurri butter ($36) and potato gnocchi with butternut squash and burrata ($22).

Despite the many TVs and casual local vibes, Fin + Field imparts an air of classiness. With credible eats, great prices and an atmosphere with something for everyone, this new establishment isn’t one you want to look past.

FIN + FIELD 6:30am-11pm Sun-Thu; 6:30am-midnight Fri-Sat. • 350 Calle Principal, Monterey • 649-4234 x1115.