Cultura Comida y Bebida

On a quiet Friday afternoon at Cultura Comida y Bebida, when people might start clocking out and heading for happy hours, I had the lounge to myself for a few peaceful moments. Traditional Mexican norteño music played, and pops of color from lime green chairs and yellow barstools gave liveliness to décor that was modern despite gothic eeriness. Skeleton ribs and animal skulls would have been odd were it not for their harmony with the contemporary copper bar and bright red booths. A lot of thought went into the setting, helping earn Cultura a reputation as the area’s sexiest new restaurant. By the time my cocktail buddy joined me, the crowd, right on time, began buzzing.

Though the wine list was sophisticated and interesting, it wasn’t in my budget, with most glasses around $20. Of note, the vino rotates often, and on a different visit was a lot more affordable (more on that later). Wine is a specialty for Sarah Kabat-Marcy, Cultura creator and managing partner. She also possesses a clear passion for all things mezcal, along with restaurant partner John Cox, and Cultura boasts over 30 of them, like Tosba Tobalá ($19/ounce), Vago Elote ($9/ounce) and Wahaka 8 year Espadín ($40/ounce), which also go into intriguing cocktails like Conejo Bebida with carrot, ginger, orange and tarragon and the Pina Aplastada with pineapple, mint and lime (both $14).

As for the eats, Executive Chef Michelle Estigoy expresses the traditional Oaxacan cooking of her mother and grandmother with a Carmel twist and a nod to sustainability and local sourcing. Formerly Sierra Mar’s executive sous chef, Estigoy has long-term working relationships with Kabat-Marcy and Cox – who both came from Sierra Mar as well.

Interesting starters include fresh chapulines ($6), Mexican-style grasshoppers with chili and lime. Dinner consists of many small bites, stylish sides and a few larger plates, like molé on smoked pork ($24), oak-roasted steelhead trout ($32), grilled skirt steak ($25) and a roasted half chicken ($23). For richer palates (and pockets) come the Rico Suaves: Wagyu eye of ribeye with black beans and street corn ($95), Monterey red abalone “relleno style” ($45) and 30 grams of Black River Siberian caviar with blue corn blini ($125).

Our friendly and attentive server offered tempting tidbits on her favorite items while explaining that the menu’s various antojitos (appetizers) and a la carta sides were designed to be shared.

We went with her advice. The squash blossom quesadilla ($14) scored highest for me, comforting and filling with hot, gooey asadero cheese and some thinly sliced squash blossom pressed into the housemade corn tortillas. With a zesty roasted guajillo pepper salsa, it delivered substance and luxury.

The vegetarian black beans ($5) were salted with seaweed, which brought out a bacon-like flavor I never would have guessed came from the ocean. It went well with the daintily seasoned cilantro rice ($4), which was noticeably undercooked. In any case, all the antojitos complemented each other; I was mixing everything up on my fork and all combinations worked. The soft, sugary tamarind yams ($7) added sweetness to all the savories, like the calabacitas ($8) – traditional Mexican squash ribbons that Cultura enhances with a soothing and creamy cauliflower sauce.

On a late Sunday lunch date a few weeks later, the lounge’s fireplace was already crackling when we walked in to hear bachata Caribbean music. When given a separate lunch menu, I recalled how on my first visit our server had said it’s the same menu for lunch and dinner. This was not the only tweak: Some good news came on the wine list, which now ranged $12-$18/glass. Newbies included a 2014 Alfaro Grüner Veltliner from the Santa Cruz Mountains ($12/glass) and a 2013 Madeleine Rue des Champs Cabernet Franc out of Cachagua ($17). The lunch menu was shorter than dinner’s, but no less exciting. For a snack, the crispy, airy pinwheels and Valentina hot sauce ($3) did the trick (tip: add lime). Right away I opted for the grilled skirt steak salad ($16). Cooked to a delectable chew somewhere between medium rare and medium, the seared meat teamed beautifully with tomatoes, corn and black beans on crunchy lettuce with homemade tortilla chips.

Even more filling were the chilaquiles ($14) and Cultura torta ($10). The chilaquiles spiced things up with tangy tomatillo salsa, shredded Monterey jack and two fried eggs on delicately fried tostadas. The torta boasted a subtle black bean puree with bountiful avocado, thick quesillo and pickled jalapeño to add a scrumptious little kick. With the addition of carne asada ($5), it was a tasty challenge to even eat half of it.

Though I was already pretty sold that Cultura was excellent after round one, I felt more satisfied the second time around, due to larger portions at better prices. Places need time to master the details, but these guys have the most important bit – the quality – down to an art. The rest will work itself out, and in the meantime the seats are filling up.

CULTURA COMIDA y BEBIDA 5pm-midnight Mon-Tue; 11:30am-midnight Thu-Sun. Dolores between Fifth and Sixth, Carmel. 250-7005, www.culturacarmel.com