Covey Bar & Deck

Although it’s not too far from civilization, or all that far from downtown Carmel, one feels transplanted to a magical middle-of-nowhere on the beautiful new patio at recently reopened Covey Bar & Deck at Quail Lodge and Golf Club. Carmel Valley offers many great spots to grab a glass of vino, and this peaceful retreat is up there with the best. With a sunlit view of a picturesque bridge veiled by trees over a pond, ducks swimming happily and the air only pierced by the sounds of birds singing, there aren’t many better spots to sit back and relax.

Covey offers breakfast daily (and brunch on the weekends), but the new bar and deck for nighttime adventurers is a whole different thing. A warm summer evening sparked the idea to sample some lighter fare and cool drinks. Fun cocktails come aplenty (all $12), like the “sparkling ruby mandarin” with mandarin vodka, sweet vermouth, grapefruit and sparkling wine, with my personal favorite addition of St. Germain, giving the drink a flowery touch. The “harvest mule” brings different twists of refreshment with lime and cranberry in a mix of vodka and ginger beer. For those wanting a dash of caffeinated comfort, the espresso martini is a delightful teaser (if not dessert), with vanilla vodka, Bailey’s Irish cream, Kahlua and fresh espresso. For lovers of other liquor, there’s The Original with Redemption rye whiskey, two types of craft bitters and a sugar cube, the CV negroni with toasted orange peel or the old-fashioned with Luxardo cherry and orange, respectively. A decent selection of beer includes Lagunitas Little Sumpin’ IPA ($6.50), Carmel Wheat ($6.50) and Birra Moretti Pale Lager ($6). I knew I’d be into the various wine flights, but more on that later.

The menu isn’t very extensive but provides good share plates and snacks by Brian Kearns, who came over to Quail from La Bicyclette last summer. We jumped on the roasted organic vegetable board ($12), crispy Brussels sprouts ($9) and duck fat fries $8.

The board delivered an attractive array of cauliflower, broccolini, potatoes and purple carrots with pita bread and a couple dips, a springy yogurt avocado and a delectably deep smoky eggplant. The sprouts came covered in cider gastrique, a sweet reduction that complemented the greens and thick-chopped applewood-smoked bacon. Covey’s duck-fat fries arrived in a cone with a side of creamy garlic aioli, and provide a good if somewhat greasy foundation for indulging in the bar’s many beverages.

We still felt like snacking as the night went on, and couldn’t resist a few cheeses like the Cabot clothbound aged cheddar and triple cream brie (all cheeses are $5 and include grilled baguette). The cheddar came with marcona almonds that enhanced the cheese’s natural nuttiness, while the luscious brie found a friend in a sweet fig compote.

On a subsequent laid-back Saturday, the wine list brought much satisfaction. For the middle of the weekend around 7pm it was surprisingly quiet, but people did filter in and out as we took in the views. Two flights seemed a good bet for two people: a white mix of Monterey Chardonnays ($15) and mixed reds ($25). Pours flowed generously, and we decided to sip by color, starting with white.

The first Chard was Joyce’s “Stele” unoaked 2015 vintage from the Santa Lucia Highlands, lean and crispy with a fruity focus. The Bernardus 2010 Chard also brought on crispiness with a tart taste and high-acid mouthfeel. The bar had run out of Talbott’s Kali Hart, so I opted for Otter Cove’s 2014 off-dry Riesling, which hinted at a slight effervescence among floral aromas that outdid the Chardonnays.

In between flights we needed a hearty base, and I was pumped to introduce my friend to his first chicken and waffles ($16). But two pieces of chicken came so fried that the hardened skin just cracked right off and only a few deep bites were tender. You could tell just by looking at the waffles that they were overcooked as well, with crunchy edges almost blackened. Spoonfuls of butter and syrup couldn’t remedy the problem. In hopes of giving a polite hint, I asked the server if it always came this crispy. She looked at it and said yes.

We moved onto better things, like three beef sliders ($15) with aged cheddar, caramelized onion and a pink relish “special sauce.” These were yummy, with fresh and flavorful tomatoes, melted cheese and rich caramelized onions, a key to making any burger delicious.

As we nibbled in the sunset, we moved onto darker wines. The 2014 Tondre Pinot Noir from Joyce set a fine example for a proper Pinot with bursting strawberry flavors and pepper undertones. An almost-musty 2014 Syrah from Otter Cove brought balanced acidity with black fruit, while my favorite, a 2013 Scheid Cabernet, left the palate content with smooth tannins and a hint of leathery tobacco.

Though the chicken and waffles weren’t on their game, the rest of the menu more than made up for it – with help from a nice drink and a memorable view.

COVEY BAR & DECK
8205 Valley Greens Drive, Carmel
6:30-11am daily,5-10pm Wed-Sun.
(866) 675-1101
quaillodge.com/dining/carmel-ca-bars.