Bon Ton L’Roy’s Lighthouse Smokehouse

Deadsville. That was my first impression of the empty Lighthouse Smokehouse, Monterey’s newest barbecue place, when I visited on a Thursday evening. But soon after I took a seat at the bar and started to absorb the cozy ambience, I realized first impressions can be deceiving in the rough-and-tumble world of the restaurant biz. Despite the scarcity of life in the establishment, the food was very much alive with flavor.

Co-owner Vladimir Fabisevich offered a sample of the six drafts (all $6). As music of yesteryear soothed my ears – Sinatra, Satchmo, Holiday – we talked beer pairing. A beer at the bar was my plan for this initial reconnaissance. But a look at the menu and the tastebud-awakening samples changed things.

Gumbo seemed the right call ($4 cup, $7 bowl), and a cup was the size of a bowl in most places. I’m no expert on Cajun food, but this medley of ham, chicken, house-smoked andouille sausage, okra and rice was mighty fine eating.

I perused the menu until the slow smoked pulled pork sandwich ($9.50) won me over. The generous portion of tender pork shoulder luxuriates beneath medium-hot and tangy house barbecue sauce on a Palermo Bakery sesame roll. Fabisevich, who arrived from Russia six years ago, suggested the Anderson Valley Boont Amber Ale ($6) and its mild hoppiness harmonized with the hearty pork.

Next night, the scene was quite different. This time the former Amir’s Grill and Bar was abuzz, filled to near capacity in a space that holds 45 or so. Things seemed a little hectic as Fabisevich and the server responded to what is known in the business as “getting slammed” – a bunch of folks coming in at the same time.

Vlad’s mom and co-owner Valentina Rapisarda worked the kitchen with Chef Lenny Leon. She appeared occasionally in the dining room to keep things flowing. Service was a tad slow, but for a homespun team of four – mom, son, server, chef – the challenge of getting the food out in reasonable time was met.

Other soup choices include clam chowder, smoked turkey lentil and borscht ($4-$6). We thought a cup of borscht and one of lentils was the way to go. Both were excellent. But the borscht was way more than a token sentiment of mom and son’s roots. Chock full of firmly textured vegetables in a flavorful broth, this beet – and cabbage-based soup is surely a frequent future choice.

This is a barbecue place, so my dining partner and I decided to go whole hog. I ordered the combo plate, a choice of any three meats plus two sides ($19.75). I chose the brisket, tri-tip and 1/3 rack of ribs. Vlad suggested an Anderson Valley Oatmeal Stout ($6). Good call.

The star of the meat trio was the brisket, smoked to such a delicate texture you could cut it with your fork. The ribs were firm, flavorful and not too fatty or sinewy. As for the tri-tip, it was spot on for those who like it – great flavor, but its natural texture feels a bit firm for my liking.

For the two sides I went classic: coleslaw and mac and cheese. Others include potato salad, macaroni salad, red beans and rice, Cajun fries and seasonal roasted vegetables (all $5 a la carte). The slaw was out of this world with some tangy nuances uncommon in most and the mac was everything it should be – creamy, cheesy and delicious. I picked up more slaw next day to go with the leftovers. Grabbed some potato salad too, which I hadn’t tried. Tasted a lot like my mom’s.

My date ordered the half barbecued chicken plate ($14.75) with a slow-smoked, free range Petaluma Jr.’s chicken, which includes one side. Both the dark and white meat were tender and juicy with a nicely caramelized outer skin liberally coated with the housemade barbecue sauce. Her side, the roasted vegetables – onion, zucchini, eggplant, mushrooms, green beans and corn – were emphatically recommended by Vlad. Well seasoned, well cooked and far from the usual afterthought.

I’m searching to find something wrong. It’s the cornbread. This one had a texture that was dry and crumbly.

The two other barbecue dinner plates include the smoked sausage ($14.75) and the smoked salmon ($15.75). Other sandwich choices ($9.50 each): tri-tip, smoked sausage and chicken, pastrami, turkey and ham ($9.50); specialty sandwiches: smoked salmon ($9.50), Reuben ($12.50), meatball sub ($9.50), classic New Orleans muffuletta ($12.50). There’s a gourmet BLT ($9.50) and a club ($11.50) too.

For non-carnivores the menu does three vegetarian sandwiches ($9.50 each), one with roasted vegetables. Heading the list of salads is the shrimp Louie ($13.75), a meal in itself. The other two are a Caesar ($8) and a mixed green ($7.50). Chicken, turkey, shrimp or salmon can be added to either for a few extra bucks.

We’re talking about generously portioned comfort food that tempts you to eat to the point of discomfort. We boxed up about half of it – enough for another couple of meals per person. We also boxed a slice of housemade sweet potato pie ($10). Now I understand what all the fuss is about. Damn good stuff.

For me, barbecue places tend to disappoint, even the “famous” ones. This one didn’t. I liked its family restaurant, non-corporate vibe, and I liked the food even more. Before, I had no clear-cut local favorite for barbecue. Now I do.

LIGHTHOUSE SMOKEHOUSE 794 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey. 8am-10pm Mon-Tue; 11am-midnight Wed; 8am-midnight Thurs-Sun. 375-6958.