Bay Cafe

Sunlight glints off the water’s surface of Lake El Estero across the street from the Bay Cafe.

When I come for late breakfast, I’m greeted by a friendly wait staff and given a choice of what remain of the 20 tables.

Pale yellow walls provide cheer. Plants populate the interior with birdcages, huge glass jugs and mirrors with elaborate frames – kitschy but endearing. The high, sloped ceiling gives an open feeling.

The large windows maximize the view of the lake. Elderly couples stroll by with their dogs, and skateboarders practice their tricks in the skate park across the lake. Watching the American coots taking their morning swim is relaxing.

I’m pleasantly surprised by the large variety of green and black teas ($2.95) – 26 total; my mango black is served in a heavy teapot with enough hot water for at least two cups. There are also several wines by the glass ($5-9) and draft beers ($3.50-5.50). Mimosas ($7) too.

All these qualities make this a nice place to sit and savor – particularly on the humble patio on a spring morning. That was the idea when owner-operator Enrique Alvarez took over in May 2013, when it was Lakeside Grill. “We decided to renovate and re-launch the whole concept,” he says. “We are a local’s place [now]; we want them to hang out.”

To that end, he added draft beer and a coffee bar, a full breakfast menu and, in September, dinner. He also offers free wi-fi as an incentive for students to stick around and do homework. Plus, he says, “We give free munchies.”

That includes warm ciabatta and a dish of house tapenade sauce, made with sundried tomatoes, anchovies, garlic, olive oil and chili flakes. The bright red sauce has a great tang, a little sweeter and spicier than traditional marinara and is quite enjoyable with the bread.

Breakfast items take up the lion’s share of the menu and are Bay Cafe’s strongest suit. Fully stuffed omelets and creative Benedicts abound, like the Nor Cal omelet with bacon, jalapeños, onions, tomatoes, cilantro and cheeses ($9.99) or the crab-and-avocado Benedict ($13.99) with fresh Dungeness meat.

There’s a section of “skillets” – dishes which combine thick-cut potatoes with stir-in options and come topped with two eggs over easy and a side of toast. Diners can build their own ($10.99) or go for a house option like the ham skillet ($10.50) or daily special ($10.50).

I hear the griddle sizzling as I wait for my avocado, Ortega chili and pico de gallo skillet ($10.50). The metal dish appears small at first, but what it lacks in diameter it more than makes up for in depth. I break the yolks and let them run over the medley of chunky potatoes, onions, tomatoes, peppers and lots of melted cheddar and Jack cheese below. The green Ortega chilis are mild and flavorful, but the pico de gallo has too much red onion for my liking, making it a little piquant. Everything else melds well, including the perfectly ripe avocado.

Other times an early bird wants a sweeter meal. Here the pancake rollo ($9.99) – described as a pancake-crepe hybrid – offers a twist. It comes closer to a pancake in thickness, rolled up like a crepe might be. The final creation is a large roulade stuffed with berries, slathered with vanilla yogurt and topped with large banana slices and granola.

The yogurt is sweet enough that the pancake doesn’t need syrup. The strawberries, raspberries and blackberries are colorful and fresh. The granola furnishes a crunchy finish.

Pancakes come in traditional stacks starting at $6.50. Waffles and French toasts are $5.99-$9.99.

The lunch menu includes a selection of sandwiches like the traditional Reuben ($10.99), burgers and pastas like the prawn scampi with a white wine cream sauce ($14.99). A nice touch: The noodles are made in-house.

The fresh mozzarella and portobello mushroom sandwich ($9.99) is stuffed prodigiously. So full, in fact, that it’s difficult to hold in the hand without losing globs of cheese and red peppers, and the juice-soaked bottom slice of focaccia doesn’t help. I settle with fork-and-knifing my way through.

I am rewarded for my efforts with some very tasty slices of rich portobello cap. I can taste the sweet-but-acidic edge of the cherry vinegar marinade – much tastier than balsamic. The savory flavor of the caramelized onions and the chipotle mayo spread complete it.

The dinner menu has more pasta dishes, salads and entrées. However, both the clam chowder soup of the evening ($3.99 cup) and the chicken picatta ($13.95) fail to impress like breakfast. But the values don’t stop, though, with “Sunset Specials” from 5-7pm offering an appetizer plus entree – like grilled sand dabs ($11.95) or bay shrimp pasta in spicy clam butter sauce ($9.95) – for more-than-fair prices.

All told it’s a spot that prioritizes value, freshness and friendliness. I wouldn’t lug my laptop here to work, but that’s because I’d rather linger at my table and slowly finish my tea while watching the paddle boats on the water. I don’t know many places where you can do that.

BAY CAFE 55 Camino Aguajito, Monterey. • 7am-2pm breakfast and lunch, 5-9pm dinner (closed Sun) • 717-4054