Picture winemaker Josh Pierce as a sorcerer, huddled over barrels in a dim laboratory, working by candlelight, measuring different wines into a beaker. How else could someone conjure up a formula like the 2016 Cosecheiro?
It’s a potion of Tempranillo (46 percent), Malbec (18 percent) – all very common to start. But he blends in Touriga, a potent Portuguese varietal and follows that up with a helping of Petit Verdot, a brawny and volatile grape at 18 percent and 16 percent, respectively. And he’s not through, tapping Souzão for the remaining 2 percent. That’s a lot of toil and trouble, but it pays off.
The aromas are dark at first – black cherry and blackberry setting the mood, with an intense but short-lived wail of black pepper. On the palate it entices you with a cloak of cherry compote and more dark berries, before plunging into an earthy vale. In this gloaming, whispers of leather and tobacco, mocha and spice, vanilla and dry sage cast their spell. And Pierce has one more trick: Decant, and you get this wine. Sip more hastily, and it’s a softer, more coquettish version. It’s magic, either way.
PIERCE RANCH VINEYARDS 499 Wave St., Monterey. 372-8900, piercevineyards.com

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