Peter B’s uses apricot to break the IPA spell, creating a uniquely balanced ale.

First, it was the India Pale Ale. Nothing wrong with the style, mind you. It just became so common that brewers began to double, then triple their IPAs in order to stand out. And then it got out of control.

Scan the shelves here, it’s all double IPAs. Drop by a brewpub there, and the bartender touts their latest triple IPA. In such a market, the occasional APA offers a welcome break.

Yes, that’s apricot pale ale. At Peter B’s in Monterey, brewmaster Justin Rivard introduces apricot puree to his pale ale toward the end of the fermentation process. The resulting brew – labeled Drupe Kidd – teases with aromas of stonefruit and fresh pear before suddenly turning on you. But the sour, prickly attitude is welcome, providing a counterpoint to a blush of tropical sweetness and wispy malt. The ale wobbles between resinous bite and breezy refreshment. Apricot rises on the finish, lending depth. It becomes, after all of that, a keen, balanced and intriguing beer. It may make you forget the IPA market saturation thing.

PETER B’S BREWPUB 2 Portola Plaza (in Portola Hotel and Spa), Monterey. 649-2699, portolahotel.com