Moss Landing’s roadside Marketplace does a lot of things well.

Even with the skills to do it all, it’s nice to have a specialty. Like all truly great roadstops, the new Whole Enchilada Marketplace seems to have everything nice people might need—pre-sail, post-surf or in transit between Santa Cruz and Monterey—plus a few things they don’t need but just might want. There’s fresh fruit (including some organic), gourmet snacks, wine-tasting, barbecue equipment, gift items, and a suggestion box. As much a relic of eras past as the roadstop, this box sits on the counter to collect feedback on what can be added. The establishment’s co-owners—Reynaldo Retez (owner of the nearby Whole Enchilada), Luiz Solano (its longtime chef), and Roy Blanco (a local builder)—are eager for ideas.

Even though it offers a variety of options, the Marketplace does have a specialty: fresh, inventive sandwiches, which Maria, behind the counter, calls her bestsellers. They’re written on a surfboard hanging on the wall, along with smoothie options and other stuff, and each one looks good.

Rosie, JC and I ordered three of the four choices, requesting appropriate breads from a short list, and asked Maria to slice ’em up three ways. We also grabbed an “El Clucko” from the panini list for a friend we planned to meet later.

Whole wheat felt right for the Crabby Attitude ($6.75), and the thin roll was as fresh as the delicious Dungeness crabmeat. The light number, bolstered by tartar sauce, a squirt of lemon juice, tomato, red onion, ruffles of leafy lettuce, and some very welcome avocado, was a winner on all three scorecards.

We put the Power Plant ($5.99) on a foundation of ciabatta. Onto it went tender tri-tip, spicy mayo, pepper jack cheese, lettuce, tomato and red onion. The barbecued meat was fresh and the jack was a nice complement, but tri-tip fans would do well to ask for extra meat. It also needed a little more lubricant, so seeking more spicy mayo or adding other condiments would also be wise.

The Milanesa ($6.75) on French bread also needed a little added condiment, but the breaded-pounded-and-fried layers of super-thin veal were good—and that’s coming from a guy who once lived almost exclusively on the stuff. Sadly, amongst the lettuce, onion and tomato, the advertised avocado was absent.

Later that evening, a bite of the El Clucko ($4.99)—roasted chicken, melted mozarella, roasted red pepper, avocado and pesto, on a thin round of flat foccaccini—revealed that the Marketplace knows its paninis. The smoky flavor of the chicken and pepper melted gracefully into the pesto and avocado.

We also grabbed some fancy chips and a smoothie. The seven smoothie specials ($3.50 each) move from the conventional, like Monkey Business (strawberry, banana and OJ) to the rare, like Let’s Date (bananas, peanut butter, dates and soy milk).

I tried the Moss Smoothie. The top-selling blend honors the smoothie-guru creed of honey over sugar, and works banana, strawberry, mango and OJ in with vanilla yogurt. Its 16 ounces weren’t too thick, too watery or too sweet—the Moss is boss. There are also seasonal Mexican-style licuados available ($3.50).

Of course, there is more to this marketplace than the specialty sandwiches. Patrons are free to customize their own sandwich for $5.49, or choose some straightforward-sounding hot dogs and hamburgers, and there are a pair of inviting vegetarian wraps (both $5.99): a Greek that stars cucumber, feta and avocado and a Veggie Soprano that headlines mozzarella and basil.

Meanwhile, the greater panini list includes some breakfast choices. When I called in an order for a Diabla ($4.99), the response sounded promising. “La Diablaaa,” Maria purred. The little devil proved extremely eatable—crusty but not too stiff, thin enough to allow easy bites, and very portable. It was also smoking with flavor from the green chile and double pepper jack stuck to both crusts. But the bacon, which would’ve taken this sando over the top, was conspicuously missing.

A redemptive bonus did appear in the takeout bag, however, in the form of a serving of floor manager Luis Gonzalez’ perfectly spicy homemade chile salsa, crafted from roasted tomatoes, chiles de arbol and garlic. Consider it one of their specialties.  

Whole Enchilada Marketplace

7990-A Moss Landing Rd., Moss Landing • 7am-7pm daily • 632-2628.