Taste 01.03.19

Hussars

Some say the hussar – a cookie – honors the Hussars, the far-reaching cavalry of the Napoleonic wars.

Really it’s sorta hard to imagine Hussars gathered around the campfire munching these delicate cookies. After all, they were wont to pop Champagne bottles with their sabres. That little treats are also known as thumbprints or bright-eyed Susans confuses the Hussar connection.

No matter its origins, the cookie is compelling. The staff at Layers Cakes turn out several versions of the hussar. Lemon features tart curd over an ethereal cookie that seems to vanish on the palate, leaving traces of mellow nuttiness and rich shortbread. In raspberry form, the dense jam brings out impressions of hazelnut and vanilla from the dough.

Some of the hussars receive a coat of icing. Their peanut butter hussar, for instance, takes on the character of a classic peanut butter dough, with the fragile chocolate shell lending a blossom cookie sensation while picking up on a faint bitter trace from the crunchy-style spread.

It’s versatile, just like the original Hussars. And just as comfortable with Champagne as with coffee or milk.

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