For Elijah Vasquez, looking after his father’s legacy at La Tortuga is something he takes seriously.

Elijah Vasquez smiles wistfully recalling his father’s last day at the family restaurant: “He was just observing the outside, the inside, the kitchen – just staring.”

Luis Vasquez had opened La Tortuga in 1999 on Broadway Avenue in Seaside before moving into its current space on Fremont. The restaurant known for its tortas and Oaxacan plates quickly became a favorite. Luis, who did not finish middle school in Mexico but worked his way from dishwasher to head chef after coming to Monterey County, became a recognized figure in the community for his cooking and for his generosity.

In the summer of 2023, liver cancer tore quickly through Luis’ body. He died on Oct. 5, 2023, leaving his son with a family restaurant and a legacy of hard work and accomplishment.

“Everyone used to tell me I have big shoes to fill,” Elijah points out. “Yes, I know.”

Since he was young, Elijah would watch his father work – long hours, but he always had a ready smile for customers. When old enough, Elijah joined the crew as a server, taking whatever time he could to pick up tips on the ins and outs of a professional restaurant, of running a small business.

Taking over – actually, Elijah uses the phrase “looking after” – the place his father brought into existence and guided to success is admittedly daunting. “My dad told me you’re never going to stop learning in this business,” he says. “I want to make him proud.”

Luis was born in the state of Oaxaca in 1964. By the age of 10 he began baking and not long after he left school to work. He came to the U.S. around age 20, toiling in various Peninsula restaurants. Eventually he became chef at Fifi’s Cafe, a popular French kitchen in Pacific Grove.

Despite not finishing his schooling in Mexico, Luis stressed the importance of education to his family. “My dad always told me to finish school, to study,” Elijah says. The young Vasquez graduated from Seaside High School and took business courses at Monterey Peninsula College.

Meanwhile Luis completed a GED at MPC in 1999, the same year he opened La Tortuga. Elijah believes that his father was haunted by quitting his studies. Some of the friends he grew up with in Mexico had become healthcare practitioners or made their way in other professions.

“I told him, ‘Dad, you’re a business owner. You did amazing work,’” Elijah recalls. Growing up, the young Vasquez was impressed by the crowds and the diversity of people dining at La Tortuga. “The mayor would visit the restaurant – man, the mayor! I told [my dad], ‘Hopefully someday I can be like you.’”

But it wasn’t always easy for either of them. Luis opened additional restaurants in other cities. The hours he worked grew longer. Elijah’s mother started helping in the Seaside location, and he admits that the absence of his father sometimes gnawed at him. Eventually, however, Luis sold the other operations to concentrate on his original location, and his family.

On days off he would cook – for his family, but also for the kids in the neighborhood, who would gather when they learned the chef was at home. “Man, his desserts,” Elijah says with a smile. “Being older, I’m grateful for all his hard work,” he adds. “We have a good foundation.”

Of course, the loss of his father at the age of 59 still hurts. While Elijah acknowledges that it’s even harder on his mother, he also has moments.

“Why my dad? He helped so many people,” he says, his eyes tilting toward the sky. “I still believe it’s a dream. But it’s not. It’s reality.”

Yet the lessons Luis passed down continue to resonate, and the lessons are many: work with passion; remain humble; provide for the hungry; give back to the community.

“Everything I know is from him,” Elijah says. “They were beautiful moments, when we were together working. I have to do it for my dad.”

He’s taking in the lessons that small businesses teach every day. He intends to keep the restaurant in the family and is considering a second location.

“It’s the most important thing right now, remembering his sacrifices,” Elijah says. “I just wish I had more one-on-one classes with him.”

LA TORTUGA is at 1257 Fremont Blvd., Seaside. 899-8429, latortugaseaside.com.