EDIBLE: Salinas’ downtown enjoys an upwelling of improvements.

Not too long ago I dedicated this space to an epicurean exploration: Discerning which block (or so) among all blocks was the mightiest in Monterey County when it comes to food and drink.

Four contenders stood out. Carmel’s Mission Street, on the strength of spots like Flying Fish Grill, Andre’s Bouchee, Anton & Michel and Patisserie Boissiere, earned a nod for prestige (though I’d argue it has since been eclipsed by Dolores and its new additions like Seventh & Dolores and Mulligan Public House). New Monterey’s Lighthouse (Crystal Fish,Namaste Indian Bistro, Taqueria Del Mar and more) provides the most ethnic diversity and value. Downtown Monterey’s Alvarado Street owns the most action (with 15 spots including Rosine’s, Alvarado Street Brewery, Full Moon Mandarin and Lallapalooza). But for me it was Oldtown Salinas’ Main Street, on the strength of what were new standouts inPatria, Giorgio’s and Dubber’s – and later, Farmers Union Pourhouse, to go with classics like Dudley’s Oldtown, Shogun Sushi, Golden Fish Seafood and La Fogata – that carried both the most intrigue and the most potential. Now I’m happy to report that potential has been realized and Oldtown has gotten significantly, if not dramatically, better, with more upgrades on the way. Here’s how it’s happening, in five courses.

Portobello’s new spot is hot.

The catering/cafe operation (753-0797) was plenty popular in its original location in Zeph’s One Stop. Now, after two months open in the Taylor Farms building (itself a boon to Oldtown), the family-run joint has become a reliable piece of Main Street’s caloric and social scene. All the classic offerings are there in the shiny glass deli case – seemingly endless inventive salads and stacked sandwiches among the finds – but around the corner appears a full bar and protected patio to complement the industrial concrete-and-oxidized-steel design. The loaded sit-down menu has grown from the former spot’s, with robust breakfasts like the avocado-bacon-cheese frittata ($10.95) and lunch-dinner favorites like the sand dabs ($17) and braised short ribs ($20). They’ve also added appetizers (like the lively Pok Pok wings) and eight pizzas including the 104 with meatballs, mushrooms and roasted garlic ($13). A Tuesday-Friday 3-6pm happy hour(s) includes $5 snacks, $8 pizzas, $5 drafts, and $6 mixed drinks and house wines. Live bands are becoming a regular presence on more and more Fridays too.

201 Main is upping its game.

First Giorgio’s installed new management that swiftly brought the upkeep and the food up to par with the gorgeous setting, via plates like the prawns Silvestre with asparagus tips, cherry tomatoes, candied bacon and housemade fettucine, and the Italian sausage pizetta with spring onion, roasted peppers and Calabrian chilies. Meanwhile, Friday nights have developed into a dynamic scene, drawing around 250 people with a DJ doing top-40 club music in the M Lounge and live banda in its Santa Lucia Room. The party moves downstairs in December, with a new full bar at Citracada in the former Ticino – where the reimagined decor leans industrial-steampunk and doors open to fire pits on the patio.

As soon as mid-January, Citracada Pacific Fusion will add food to the same space with a concept unlike any in the area: a fast-casual format featuring burrito bowls, poke bowls, bao-bun tacos and all sorts of crossover flavor, plus an assortment of “industrial strength” frozen drinks like margaritas, sangrias and frozen rosé – frozé? – designed to provide more affordable counterpoint to neighboring Giorgio’s.

Patria has evolved.

Thanks to a soothing countryside setting and homemade comfort foods like German-style lamb and bechamel-potato pizza, Patria has long been one of the best restaurants, particularly for the dollar, in the area. Now, with Kim Mihkail coming over from now-closed Market Restaurant in North Monterey to manage things in concert with chef-owner Paulo Kautz, the vibe is even more welcoming and key details are smartly updated, including choices on everything from lettuce to wine list. My colleague and constant Oldtown presence Tracy Vasquez eats there several times a month (usually going for the warm European salad, wild boar pappardelle, rabbit and what she calls “the best cheese-and-charcuterie plate in the county”). “It was nice before,” Vasquez says. “Now it’s great.”

Little Sicily proves legit.

Owner-operator Mike Pappalardo worked for years at Italian institution Gianni’s Pizza in New Monterey. Something else recommends him more: nonna’s recipes. She’s the inspiration behind the handmade, hardcore Sicilian, Old World-style homemade pastas and sauces that have the homey new 16-seat spot and surrounding area filled with seductive scents. “Little” applies to price tag too: Nothing’s more than $14.50. Pappalardo says the best-sellers are many; the lasagna ($13 with classic sesame-seed garlic bread) he recommended on our visit was pillowy and precisely spiced, and the pistachio cannoli ($6) tasted luxurious.

The farmers market feels fuller.

The 9am-2pm Saturday Oldtown Salinas Certified Farmers Market seems to have turned a critical corner by now filling two full blocks. That stretch of Gabilan, meanwhile, gets big verve from little Blue Aces Bakery and Gold Leaf Spice & Teas, who adjusted hours somewhere along the way to be open for market times.