EDIBLE: Big updates do Moss Landing right on seafood and beer.

Maybe it’s an aftereffect of watching dozens of otters eat their way to a quarter of their body weight, as they do each day. Or the appetite that emerges kayaking into Elkhorn Slough to search out pelicans, herons and harbor seals. Or the simple fact there aren’t any rice balls I’ve tried like these on land or at sea.

Or it’s all that put together. Whatever the case, the seafood arancini at Sea Harvest Moss Landing on the harbor at 2420 Highway 1 (728-8686) puts together big flavor and value (four for $13) via moist rock crab and bay shrimp with a touch of rice and tender green peas all bread-crumbed, flash-fried and elevated by buttery dill cream sauce.

It’s as good a representation of the new era there as anything. It comes after Deyerle brothers and longtime fishermen Richard and Daniel sold to their sister Lynn, who owns the Monterey location, and who in turn brought in her daughter and son-in-law Melissa and Keigan Skydecker to run it. Different parts of the family continue to own the Sea Harvest market-restaurant locations in the Carmel Crossroads and New Monterey, though each has its own flavor. Last week the trio won our readers’ vote for Best Seafood Market for the umpteenth time.

Skydecker worked for years at La Mia Cucina (formerly Rombi’s), where one of the specialties is… arancini. The rest of the menu we were looking at reflected similar value: mussels sauteed in garlic and white wine or a half pound of peel-and-eat prawns are $11 each. Crab cocktail, six Blue Point oysters and six barbecued Pacific Oysters run $9, $13 and $14.

We also tapped a bargain with the local cod sandwich ($12 with fries or coleslaw) – simple, fresh, attentively grilled, satisfying. Like it reads on the relatively straightforward menu: “Our seafood is available based on the luck of our fisherman and the whim of the sea.” That bodes well given the kickoff to commercial crab season the day we came (March 26).

The arancini and cod went well with a half bottle of single vineyard Cambria Pinot ($15) from a modestly-priced, local-centric wine list featuring the likes ofHeller, McIntyre and De Tierra (which are available to go for 25 percent off).

The local calamari sandwich goes for $12, the salmon burger $1 more. Unsurprisingly, the seafood entrees – like the grilled local rockfish ($15), panko-breaded sand dabs ($16), fried prawns ($14), ginger-encrusted sablefish ($18) and smoked salmon alfredo ($18) – which come with sides, are reasonably priced too. (There are splurgier options too, like bacon-wrapped-and-chili-buttered scallops and halibut risotto, at $24 and $28.)

And it’s all enhanced by views of the slough, accessible from the protected solarium or the broad wooden decks and their picnic tables.

The other convenient element mirrors the format of the other Sea Harvests, with a fish market, though that’s less of a focus because buyers can go right to fishermen on the neighboring dock. The Skydeckers source with those local fishmongers, plus Stagnero Bros. and Monterey Fish, and build specials off what they can get day of.

“We’re just getting everything dialed where we are really proud of what we’re doing,” Keigan says. “Yelp was brutal at first. We took 18 months to get to our menu you see today, everything homemade – sauces, soups – and about 90 percent my recipes.”

That isn’t the only big change unfolding in modest Moss Landing. A click south across the Highway 1 bridge – above waters where kayakers paddle into the slough from the harbor – The Whole Enchilada Marketplace (632-2628) has expanded its semi-secret beer-and-wine bar as a first step in a larger upgrade. That piece of the puzzle was (almost) completed just last week. (Its next-door produce market is where the Skydeckers can get their produce every day.)

In the “bar,” a smallish counter has been replaced by 30 feet of slab lumber, with Peter B’s IPA and stout, English Ales 1066 Pale Ale, Kua Bay IPA andRogue on one tap tower and another 10 taps coming by next week ($5 a pint). That comes along with the deep reservoir of craft bottled beers and local and regional wines, which can be opened and enjoyed at the big wood picnic tables or the round high-top tables at no charge.

Up next: clever food pairings with grub on grade with the goodies at stylish Latin fusion joint Haute Enchilada (633-5843) and its shrimp-stuffed artichoke and Dungeness-chipotle empanada fare. That makes sense, as the deli – stacked with pressed sandwiches, blended fruit drinks, craft beer and gourmet chips – is part of the dynasty owned by the same family of Haute owner Kim Solana. (The Retez family also owns neighboring Whole Enchilada, 633-3038, and Lighthouse Harbor Grille, 633-3858.) Now they’re taking over management of the deli-beer bar space for the first time in nearly a decade, with barkeep Michael Syracuse among those enthused by the switch.

“It’s bad ass!” he says.

Solana elaborates: “We’re trying to redefine what we want it to be. It’ll be a mix of what I know how to do.”

She cites a stronger deli plus beer, wine and cider pairings.

“It’s a work in process,” she adds. “Most of all I want to serve good, roadside food.”

Which makes for a very smooth landing up north.

~ QUICKBITES ~

New and improved PortaBella on Ocean in Carmel (624-4395) has a good thing going. More on the blog.

Food truck news: Check “Good Week,” p. 4, and “Keep on Trucking,” p. 10.

Chesebro Wines (659-2125) now has an organic dry apple cider made with Live Earth Farms fruit, debuting Saturday, April 9, at its Carmel Valley tasting room. Delicious stuff, limited run, $15 a bottle.

ICYMI: Commercial season for Dungeness crab is officially back on.

Some clarification on our readers’ vote for Best Local White Wine: Bernardus’ Monterey Chard enjoys an assemblage of grapes from winemaker Dean DeKorth’s favorite local growers (Griva, Gary Franscioni, Steve McIntyre, Joe Alarid), but not any from the Marinus vineyard masterminded by Matt Shea.

To celebrate its Best Of win, Happy Girl Kitchen (373-4475) is doing free coffee or tea with any purchase.

Boardwalk Sub Shop (264-1171) now does online ordering and delivery to Marina, CSUMB, Pebble, Carmel and Mid Valley ($25 minimum + $3 delivery charge). Gluten-free bread from Mariposa Bakery in S.F. is at both Wild Thyme Deli & Café and Boardwalk too.

Todd Fisher, Cal Stamenov and Sarda Desmond lead an eight-chef lineup for Holman Ranch Wine & Food 5:30-8:30pm Thursday, April 7, at Holman ($45/person; $75/couple; CarmelHighSoberGrad@gmail.com).

Pebble Beach Food & Wine starts March 31; Drew Barrymore’s among the visitors (reppingn a Rosé she does with Carmel Road). More PBFW on the blog.

Tabs on smart drinks like the house negronis in Lalla Oceanside Grill’s downstairs Angel’s Share speakeasy-style spot (324-0891) are $5 off if you eat upstairs.

Sister restaurant Lalla Grill (324-4632) does a neat thing by rotating local artists along its walls. Up next, my local favorite, Andrew Jackson, debuting with a reception 4-6pm Wednesday, April 6.

National Beer Day is Thursday, April 7. Whaling Station (373-3778) celebrates with 2-for-1 brews.

Leonardo da Vinci: “The noblest pleasure is the joy of understanding.”