Um, Wow

Jason Franey’s attention to detail reveals itself in the burger’s brown butter-brushed bun, and in the dehydrated-sauerkraut dusting on the baked-and-fried wedges.

For Coastal Luxury Management co-founder and CEO David Bernahl, between the mingling in Miami with European princes, the launching of theatrical (and drama-rich) restaurants in Las Vegas and L.A. and a recent trip to Lyon, France, to mint an unprecedented partnership with Daniel BouludThomas Keller and Jerome Bocuse for April 9-12’s Pebble Beach Food & Wine, life rarely lacks intrigue.

That said, the last week has still been pretty special, and not because he celebrated his 36th birthday.

Seven days ago the Weekly broke word his ex-bestie and CLM co-founder Rob Weakley was going big with a plan to pioneer low-dose medical marijuana chocolates with the quality of a PBFW pastry chef and a huge factory in Salinas.

This came as a cross-complaint from Bernahl and his new CLM partner Charles Banks alleged Weakley committed fraud and concealment and criminal acts, including doctoring documents to swing control of the trendy and critically acclaimed Faith & Flower to CLM’s partners in the project, billionaire couple Cindy and Jeff Troesh. It also comes in response to Weakley’s original suit, which essentially said Bernahl, et. al. were not honoring their commitment to pay his buyout from the company he helped create. (It all gets much more complicated than this. Visit the blog, www.mcweekly.com/edible, for greater depth.)

At the same time, Bernahl and a new dream team were readying for a relaunch of CLM’s flagship restaurant and Monterey landmark, Restaurant 1833.

At the soft opening, all sorts of elements came into play. Fresh paint on the walls and new plants on the patio updated the look, along with rustic aprons, plaid shirts and natty bow ties on the staff. Liquid nitrogen provided dramatic chill to the martini cart’s superlative small batch gins and vodkas, as orchestrated by new-ish GM Kyle Beauregard. New Wine Director Bernabe De Luna brought smart and atypical wine pairings to the table from far (Morgon Beaujolais) and near (La Marea Albariño). CLM Corporate Pastry Chef Ben Spungin crafted a beautiful baked chocolate cake-chocolate pudding, in addition to brilliant sorbet and cream with the build-your-own shortcake.

And new Exec Chef Jason Franey, a repeat James Beard nominee and a veteran of Canlis in Seattle and Eleven Madison Park in New York, matched the weighty anticipation with aplomb. Just the small plates of the simple introductory menu are eyecatching, thanks to items like an applewood-smoked sturgeon ($14) with baked potato panna cotta, avocado mousse and chicken skin crumble, and “concentrated” shiitake mushrooms ($14) with crunchy pig’s ear.

Our tastes from the bites column (aka “nosh”) were clear highlights. Both the “ribs” and the sweetbreads wield the sophisticated comfort that is the goal, exciting and interesting with no satisfaction sacrificed along the way.

The indulgent sweetbreads ($14) boast a “Buffalo-style” coating built from smoked mango sauce, arbol chile, wasabi, Worcestshire, soy, garlic, onions and black pepper, among other ingredients. The ribs ($14) are complex and crunchy thanks to guajillo-chile crust, a feuilles de brick casing and serrano peppers-fish sauce-shallot sauce.

Not that the entrees are anything to overlook.

The new burger ($15) rises to the level of the luxurious milk-and-honey roll, and the resulting synergy, plus tomato confit between two thin, precision-seared patties and sharp white Vermont cheddar on top, makes things as mouthwatering as they sound, and a worthy demonstration for Franey’s new freedom.

“I can be super creative with approachable stuff,” he says. “Ten years ago I wouldn’t have wanted to do a burger.”

In Franey’s hands, the super-fresh salmon ($29) approaches creamy silken texture and taste, which bodes well for the whole-roasted king salmon, one of three Gallatin’s complete animal offerings (along with suckling pig and baby goat) that require a week’s notice, at least six people and around $400.

The Hawaiian everything bread ($4) might prove good enough for folks to forget the bacon-cheddar biscuits. Other tastes worked well, as with the smashed Yukon gold potatoes with smoked steelhead roe ($8), fire-roasted sunchokes ($11) and vegetarian tortellini ($22). Only a couple things fell flat (the artichoke dip will get better), even at this early junction, a testament to a team working furiously on a new menu that the staff tasted for the first time Wednesday.

Amid a wild and successful week, the real birthday present for Bernahl was this: The drawn-out, down-and-dirty drama surrounding Faith & Flower in L.A., which involved everything from police-backed retaking of the restaurant to accusations of Bernahl embezzling – and months of proposed buyouts from each side – found some resolution. Details are still emerging and my information comes from insiders speaking on the condition of anonymity pending more public announcements from the principals. But reliable reports reveal that, after intensive mediation, the Troeshes have agreed to sell their piece of Faith & Flower.

Bernahl even took some time to celebrate his birthday with his daughter, before diving back into prep for PBFW, which starts in two weeks.

QUICKBITES

• New exec chef Evan Lite is revamping the Beach House menu, and announcing a partnership with aquaculture food grower Virdis Aquaponics. New offerings include oysters Rockefeller crostini ($12.90), crab-filled petrale sole ($29.90) and cider-cured double cut pork chop ($20.90).There’s also a new Sunset Supper menu with entrees for $9.90 (served to those seated between 4-5:30pm), with items including panko sand dabs almondine and portobello ravioli primavera.

• Casanova Restaurant hosts a five-course dinner celebrating Vincent Van Gogh’s birthday 6:30pm Monday, March 30 ($95+, space is limited), and launching their “Menu des Artistes,” a series of four-course tasting menus showcasing culinary artistry. Details to come.

• Seaside’s In N Out is being staked out in plywood and orange netting next to Laguna Grande Park.

• As spring blooms and trowels sink into soil, the annual Smart Gardening Fair focuses on sustainability and water-wise practices. It goes down 9am-3pm Saturday, April 4, at the Carmel Crossroads.

• Cibo (649-8151) celebrates its 25th anniversary April 2. Dinner guests enjoy a free glass of Prosecco with entrée and 25 percent off any pasta. Plus live music by the Ben Herod Trio.

• A new Honey Berry and its milk teas, fresh fruit teas and smoothies, and boba and fruit jelly options has arrived at Northridge Mall.

• Oysters roast on the barbecue at Zeph’s One Stop (757-3947) 5:30-7pm April 3. Mad Otter Ale will be on tap as a promising pairing ($10).

• Ongoing Winemaker Thursdays at Rio Grill (625-5436) welcomes Idyle Hour Wines 5-7pm Thursday, April 2. No charge to meet the winemaker and taste the vintage. Sibling restaurantTarpy’s (647-1444) holds “Wine Down Wednesdays” every week, with a different and always worthy local winery visiting every Wednesday with free tastings and special deals.

• Orson Welles: “If you want a happy ending, that depends, of course, on where you stop your story.”

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