Beer that isn’t what it is – and vice versa – will get your attention.

There’s an irreverent wink at the end of the Altbier-style brew on tap at Peter B’s. It sits on the menu, just after the final sentence – the one claiming the beer “tastes just like a piña colada.”

But it’s enough to make you consider. The bark-like undertones of toffee could sub in for rum, perhaps. The orchard of ripening fruit that first teases you on the nose and the palate is vaguely tropical. There is no way the hint of chocolate – as smooth as malt in the aroma, but bittersweet and rustic when sipped – or the trace of coffee fills the role of coconut cream. And yet…

The beer, labeled “Alternative Facts,” does cause one to question their perception. The fruity notes expected from an ale are elusive, allowing a malty, toffee character to develop. More rustic impressions flow from the toffee, building into a pine needle crescendo. What began as a light, pleasant pilsner ends in a bittersweet row. Altbier is an intriguing genre. Part lager and part ale. Pounded with hops at Peter B’s, it is more distinct – of Altbier, but not quite like Altbier. And it may just be possible to catch a glint of piña colada. Or maybe that’s just an alternative fact.

PETER B’S BREWPUB 2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. 649-2699, portolahotel.com/peter-bs-brewpub