First impressions of Pacific Grove's Züm Sushi in the old Thai Bistro II.

Nothing quenches bitterness like a pair of complimentary spicy mussels. 

I was bitter because the pickled radish roll ($3), or oshinko, was sold out.

But here came the mussels, marinated in a lively blend of garlic, chilies and bell pepper, followed by a steaming cup of green tea, also complimentary.

This provides a perfect opportunity to celebrate the long lost art of the welcoming free nibble that in so many places has gone the way of the dodo bird.

But the more important point: These were indicators that Züm Sushi (372-8700) aims to please.

An earlier clue comes with the clean and crisp signage and equally neat decor.

A tidy sushi bar with owner-chef Chris Choi presiding occupies the smallest of three modest rooms in the converted house, while simple patio seating adds more seating and dog-friendliness.

Choi came over from Gilroy, as I reported in a previous piece:

Owner-sushi chef Chris Choi worked as primary chef and manager at Ninja Sushi in Gilroy for 15 years.

He recently moved to the area when his wife got a nursing gig at CHOMP and discovered the owners of Thai Bistro II wanted to retire.

"People are nice and I like the community," Choi says. "I'm right in front of the ocean. It's just exciting. I can't wait to serve this community my good food."

He recommends special rolls done crafted in cahoots with his fellow sushi chef and brother Jason Choi like the Lighthouse roll ($13) with avocado, cucumber, crab, shrimp tempura and cream cheese on the inside, and crab meat and tempura crunchies and a sweet "goodie" sauce on top.

On my visit I tried the Seaside roll with baby lobster and avocado inside and lush salmon, yellowtail and a couple of other precisely sliced fish on top ($13). 

Like the simple cucumber roll and hyper-fresh wasabi, it was spot on.

The server was a little shaky on the providence of the fish, but after talking to Chris and knowing the neighborhood—Monterey Bay Aquarium staff from nearby offices busted him for serving blue fin the first weekend he was open—I'm confident he'll prioritize sustainability. 

I was stuffed after the sizable Seaside roll, cucumber roll, mussels and tea. Everything cost $21 including a generous tip.

Other good signs beyond the freebies, value, extended basic rolls and fancier maki:

• Four lunch and four dinner specials look solid. 11:30-2:30pm every day besides Saturday means things like Lunch #1 with a choice of miso soup, salad or rice and six chef's choice pieces of nigiri with a California roll or tuna roll ($12.95). Dinner deals like the 16-piece assorted sashimi #3 ($23.95) happen from 5pm until close weekdays.

• There are two types of katsu. The tonkatsu includes deep fried pork with a special sauce and the option to add for $2 curry for a tangy addition to the dish ($14.95). The chicken katsu is complemented with special sauce and an option to spice things up with curry. Both dishes are served with miso soup, salad and rice.

• The beers and drinks range from Sapporo, Asahi and Kirin to Junmai Kurosama cold sake.

• Four different udons include the yaki noodle udon ($12.95).