Carmel's New Yafa Uses a Welcoming Formula to Gather a Following Quickly

It's not hard to see how people get the impression new Carmel darling Yafa (624-9232, pronounced more like "Jafa") is closely related to huge locals fave Dametra (622-7766).

The born-for-hospitality staff is also falling all over itself to welcome people in front of the door and serve each "dear friend" tableside. The greeter was asking a woman "Can I give you a birthday hug?!" when we got there.

The menu is similarly Mediterranean/Middle Eastern/dangerously diverse, with everything from tabouli ($9.95) to burgers ($12.95) to kebabs ($18.95) to gorgonzola filet mignon ($24.95) to butternut squash ravioli ($13.95). 

The decor is similarly cozy, with simple tables and warm yellows on the wall. 

And, most importantly, there's an oud guitar propped up the corner ready for singing.

But it's not as closely related as rumored. It's not run by a Dametra co-founder or a brother. Yafa chief Ben Khader is only in the Dametra family by marriage (to a cousin), though he did work there for a year, and clearly learned something about what works in Carmel—namely, serviceable food with great ambiance and very enthusiastic service.

He also hails from Jordan; Yafa takes its name from the Middle Eastern place of the same name

When asked, he recommends the grilled octopus ($13.95) sauced with a blend of oregano, lemon, garlic and olive oil; the mishmash chicken ($17.95), a classic Moroccan dish starring chicken breast with apricot sauce and almonds served with butternut squash; and the aleppo kefta platter ($18.95), a medley of ground beef and lamb kebabs served with yogurt sauce, rice and tabour salad.

Though tempted to try the watermelon salad ($8.95) with feta, basil and pine nuts and an olive oil drizzle, we tabbed the Yafa salad ($11.95) with organic arugula, roasted beets, oranges and avocado in a mustard orange vinaigrette. It's fresh and fun, but needs plenty more beets and avow—just two and three pieces, respectively.

The other "Yafa" dishes: the Yafa pasta ($13.95) with homemade lamb and beef sausage, zucchini, garlic and tomato sauce on fresh artisan angel hair and the Yafa chicken ($17.95), a thigh oven roasted traditional Levantine style with onions and a mix of Middle Eastern spices.

We had to try Teta's eggplant delight ($16.95)—with tomato, garlic, basil and olive oil plus rice and pita—because "Teta" means grandma, and it's grandma's recipe, and the eggplant was beautifully spiced to meet expectations. But flanked by a lot of rice and basic pita—pita also comes complimentary with a nice orange parsley-feta hummus to start—it was overpriced.

The traditional Tunisian shashuka ($11.95), though, was a much more potent value, and the only shashuka I've seen offered in the area, which inspired the order. It's Mideast comfort food—a pan confit of tomatoes, red and yellow peppers, onions and olive oil layered with organic eggs that are poached as they sink in. Simple satisfaction.

Our last taste, lamb ravioli ($14.95), wasn't exactly traditional Middle Eastern, but neither is Yafa, and they were a must-order after I heard former Basil Mediterranean owner/founder Michele Cremonese is doing them for Yafa in his Sand City Bigoli pasta kitchen.

The organic homemade pasta pockets start intensely thanks to kalamata olives and feta but gives way deliciously to the dynamics of sun-dried tomato, rich lamb and garlic. Yum.

The vibe and hospitality made it hard not to stay for dessert. Looking around the lively dining room, the feeling wasn't exclusive. Carmel has another vibrant eatery.