Righteous ramen at jeninni and more trending items new to Monterey County.

Momofuku and Per Se alumni Paras Shah can make him some ramen. That, in turn, makes him a particularly tantalizing pop-up guest star here, because a really good ramen shop is something we just don’t enjoy in Monterey County. Fortunately this coming Tuesday, May 12, the special menu at jeninni kitchen + wine bar (920-2662) will present choices like the miso ramen with fancy Hatchyo miso, braised daikon, local mushrooms and fermented bamboo shoots; the chicken tsukemen with calamansi citrus and soft egg; and the way I had it on Shah’s last visit (and continue revisit in daydreams): with Benton’s bacon, pork neck, scallions, collard greens and melting egg all steamy hot and harmonizing in the bowl before me. The menu also includes olive oil semolina cake and a choice of first courses that will preview Shah’s fast-approaching new restaurant in midtown New York.

For one night, our ramen deficit will be defeated, and we will be free from ramen served at sushi spots, or from waiting for star pastry chef Yulanda Santos’ next ramen session at Carmel Belle. The taste of a wider trend has me thinking about some of the other foodie movements we are finally making progress on:

Nitro cold-brew coffee

This brew runs low on acid and high on fruitiness, creaminess and complexity. It long ago appeared in bigger cities and Stumptown Coffee Roasters even cans a blend they cold-brew for 12 hours, double filtrate, and claim will be followed by “feelings of invincibility.” But nitro hasn’t made in-roads locally… until now. Acme Coffee, which roasts and drips in Seaside and supplies a wealth of local outlets, is finalizing its cold brew nitro system with parts sourced at Bottoms Up Brewing. Owner-operator Larry Thurman plans on having it served from the tap, nitrogen – and CO2-infused, 10-gallon batches at a time, in 16 – or 20-ounce jars for around $5. “It’s got a mouthfeel like Guinness,” Thurman says. “I’m super stoked.”

Artisanal Vinegars

Consumers have been forced to choose between one mass-produced vinegar or another, without much of a thought to the quality or taste. Times have changed. The best vinegars have much in common with great wine: craftsmanship, quality ingredients and, in many cases, cask aging. For those who bask in the light of homemade salad dressings, or who relish the flavor marriage vinegar brings to marinades, there are great choices, whether it’s Trio Carmel’s Serrano Honey ($11.99, 200 ml) or Tasty Olive Bar’s Pinot Noir wine vinegar ($12.95, 200 ml). They also can work wonders in cocktails, like a shrub does for mixology-minded barkeeps – try Trio’s peach vinegar with spirits to start.

Whole Animal

Using every part of an animal made San Francisco’s Chris Cosentino an offally popular national star (and big Pebble Beach Food & Wine draw), and made sustainable eaters everywhere feel much better about eating meat. Restaurant 1833’s Jason Franey, a three-time James Beard finalist, recently served his first whole animal offerings as part of a new menu that affirms he’s the hottest new star on the regional map. The choices include whole-roasted king salmon, suckling pig or baby goat and require a week’s notice, at least six and around $400. Each comes with specially paired sides like the goat’s Merguez sausage, chimichurri, whipped eggplant and grilled flatbread.

Wagyu

To eat wagyu beef prepared by Aubergine Exec Chef Justin Cogley is to enter another dimension. But it’s not cheap: Every ounce costs $32, 4 ounces minimum. Steep, to be sure, but in the words of Restaurant Director Nathaniel Munoz, it’s “due to the complexity of the preparation.” “Chef Cogley brings out the umami characteristics of the beef through a searing preparation over a binchotan yakitori grill,” Munoz writes by email. “The first sear involves a salt crust. The second a sake wash and the third sear a soy wash. Each sear helps render the beautiful marbling while still catering to the hedonistic texture that merits the splurge.” Wagyu beef is a trend that steals from Japan’s obsession with Kobe beef, which comes from wagyu cattle breeds raised in Kobe prefecture. There are plenty of places in the county that serve it, often in more affordable ways, including Passionfish, Andre’s Bouchee, Lokal, the Tap Room at Pebble Beach. At Big Sur Taphouse, they do delicious Wagyu hot dogs with everything from bacon to Sriracha as part of 12-inch Tuesdays.

Gourmet Mary Jane Munchies

While cities like Denver and Los Angeles conceive whole fancy dinners based around cannabis-enhanced foods, Monterey County struggles to get a medical marijuana dispensary. No longer. Monterey Bay Alternative Medicine just opened Del Rey Oaks and Altai Brands has started hiring in Salinas. Altai is the team led by Pebble Beach Food & Wine co-founder RobWeakley and marijuana law savant GavinKogan that’s developing gourmet-grade chocolate ganache and salted caramel medicinal edibles to dispensaries around the country. In official communication with the city, Weakley anticipates $15 million in revenue year one.

David Schmalz contributed to this report.

Quickbites

• Carmel’s next two newest restaurants will both feature authentic Italian comfort food. The first is the second project from hyper popular la Balena, il Grillo, which looks about a month off, best case. Two is Il Tegamino from Giusseppe and Salvatore Panzuto, set for Court of the Golden Bough starting late this summer.

• Locals represented impressively at the 2015 James Beard Awards. One-mile-square Carmel actually had five finalists, though only one triumphed. More at www.mcweekly.com/edible.

• Coastal Luxury Management linchpin Sarah Potter has left the firm.

• American Culinary Federation’s 2015 Monterey County Celebrated Chef of the Year is Cy Yontz, who will take the stage at the annual president’s gala Saturday, May 30 ($125, 601-5895).

• Alvarado Brewing Company’s one-year birthday bash is underway as of 5pm Thursday, May 7. Anniversary Ale comes Friday and Triple Cone IPA Saturday. On Sunday, the brewery hosts a backyard barbecue. Plus house drafts go for $4 the whole way. That’s just in time for May 11-17 American Craft Beer Week, which means $2.50 guest pints at Peter B’s BrewPub, plus nightly giveaways and a five-course brewer’s dinner Monday, May 11 ($70++, 649-7874).

• The Winemaker’s Lunch at Asilomar Conference Grounds (1pm first seating) is one Mother’s Day event that jumps out (Sunday, May 10). Entrées include eggplant Parmesan, wild king salmon, brick-roasted California chicken and spring lamb with wine pairings. There’s also a crepe station and food for the kids. Includes tours of historic buildings ($65/adult, $20/child 5-12 years, 372-8016).

• Soban is gone in the Barnyard. Namu Fine Asian was scheduled to open last week but pushed back its debut until Thursday, May 7. Check out pictures on the food blog soon.

• Oldtown Salinas’ relatively new Dolly Cakes and Supplies (206-6686) does chocolate ho-ho, Oreo, rocky road, red velvet and strawberry-cream cupcakes so good even the paleo-eating CrossFit types next door are into them. And the “million dollar” cookie beats them all.

• Eleanor Roosevelt: “You wouldn’t worry so much about what others think of you if you realized how seldom they do.”