Epsilon

Epsilon isn’t new. It’s not trendy or experimental; it’s been around for almost 30 years. Rather, Epsilon is drenched in tradition, and what’s captured its Monterey audience for so long is truly delicious food alongside a consistently excellent dining experience. The only recent change at this beloved Greek restaurant can be seen looking up.

At the ceiling, that is.

Owner Christos Hix bought the place from his uncle Peter Mungribes in 2016, and a few months ago gave it a makeover by tearing down the ceiling. He had planned on replacing it, only to discover it had been hiding a much higher ceiling held up with beautiful, 14-foot redwood beams. There’s even a little window no one knew about.

The renovation opens the space, as does the small bar Hix added in a back corner. As for the menu, Hix remains true to his family’s classics, as does his head chef Candido Garcia.

There’s sirloin and rice and avgolemono sauce, dolmades, spanakopita, imam bayildi eggplant (vegan-friendly) and a healthy dose of indulgent moussaka. A crowd-pleasing favorite is the lamb shank – a whole different level of indulgence. Yiayia (grandmother) Irini Mungrides gets credit for this one, which she created 30 years ago in her home in Athens. Hix still visits her for inspiration, but this dish won’t need any upgrading: Shanks braise for several hours, and come almost falling off the bone in a rich tomato sauce. In Hix’s words, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

Dinners come with a Greek salad, luscious, tangy white beans, tomatoey green beans and a unique rice pilaf bursting with flavors from spicy cinnamon to sweet raisins to green peas.

The rice and beans are masterpieces on their own, but then again, so is skordalia, a garlicky, lemon dipping sauce Hix calls “Greek crack.” True to that nickname, it’s tempting to mop up with almost anything one can grab at the table, whether sourdough bread or melty pieces of saganaki – kasseri cheese lit on fire tableside (and yes, everyone takes their phone out for pictures).

For indecisive souls, there’s the combination platter, a colorful plate of earthy falafel, tender dolmadakia, crunchy calamari and hearty keftadakia meatballs, all served with cooling tzatziki. On one hand, you get great variety. On the other hand, it seemed the platter somehow received less TLC from the kitchen, as it was not quite as mouthwateringly perfect as some other entrées – the gyro meat was salty and limp, and may have sat too long.

What can barely be called a hiccup was easily forgotten when Patty, our super friendly and skillful server, delivered dessert. They offer a few specialties, but nothing quite competes with baklava, a thick slice of flaky pastry sandwiches several layers of crushed walnuts, and served with a cinnamon ice cream made exclusively for Epsilon’s baklava by neighboring Revival Ice Cream.

Maybe the ceiling needed a renovation, but the menu definitely doesn’t.

EPSILON 422 Tyler St., Monterey. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm; Wed-Thu and Sun 5-9pm; Fri-Sat 5-9:30pm. (831) 655-8108, epsilonrestaurant.com