Crystal Fish

Japanese KFC | Tamotsu Suzuki

Crystal Fish does itself a disservice labeling their fried chicken appetizer “Japanese KFC.”

You get their point – karaage chicken is as ubiquitous in Japan as KFC (perhaps even Starbucks) on this side of the Pacific. And it is playful enough that guests chuckle over the comparison. But if Harlan Sanders had sampled the little Monterey sushi house’s chicken, he may have bucked himself back to private, swabbed off the “extra crispy” makeup and boated over to Tokyo for lessons.

The Japanese fried chicken is as tender as meat slow-cooked in a smoker, with a burly character that further sets it apart from the Colonel’s best effort – earthy, yet with hackles of garlic or ginger that become lost in the enigmatic savor of the crust. You know there was a marinade involved. You can sense soy and seasonings. But the impressions are fickle, showing themselves clearly for a fleeting moment then skipping back under cover, leaving you to question your palate for sake or mirin or whatever. There is a salad of red onion and cucumber to give your palate another go, but the flavors remain dynamic and elusive.

Japanese KFC is finger-licking good – well, except for the chopsticks.

CRYSTAL FISH, 514 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey, 649-3474, crystalfishmonterey.com