New taqueria in New Monterey is on a Mission.

Some form of authenticity always works as a restaurant concept. Simplicity—in the form of a manageable menu, for example—is also a sound approach.

Bringing both into play is the goal of David S. Rodas, a restaurant ownership first-timer who opened Mission 19 Taqueria just one week ago, on March 11—so new remnants of Tutto Buono Eatalionia, the previous tenant, is still on the walls.

The restaurant occupies the corner of Lighthouse and Hoffman in Monterey, which might seem like a troubled location. The Italian kitchen shuttered during the pandemic and a previous diner did not last long. But Rodas and his team appear keen to conquer any curses.

Tortillas are hand made in house. Birria stews every morning, while pork marinates with pineapples—off to a good start. 

The idea is not quite to build your own. Instead, you provide direction, selecting from a list of grilled steak, pork, birria, chicken or a vegetarian option to start. From there the decision trail goes from where to place it (taco, quesadilla, mulita, torta and so on) to holding it there or making a plate.

Salsa and other toppings are in a covered do-it-yourself-case. It’s all pretty flexible and handy. And there are other options, such as bowls and a salad. The birria comes as a plate, too—which may be the best way to savor it. The meat is so delicate that in street taco form, juices laden with earthy spice drip onto hands and plate in a glorious mess.

Granted, that’s not a bad thing.

Mission 19 Taqueria is at 598 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey.