After earning two Michelin stars, Chef Justin Cogley is looking to add a third. And he knows how to wow critics.
“Casseroles,” he exclaims.
Cogley has transformed the Carmel destination restaurant Aubergine, known for its exclusive prix fixe menu based upon fresh, seasonal ingredients. New signs are going up today, April 1 for the rebranded Mi Casserole.
According to Cogley, casseroles have been overlooked by fine dining chefs, largely due to the culinary challenges they present. Like fried chicken, which is always better at a church basement dinner, he suggests that the likes of Alice Waters, Thomas Keller and Dominique Crenn tend to shy away from difficult dishes.
“Anyone can whip up a consommé or galantine,” Cogley says. “A decent mole? Piece of cake. But just try to nail a green bean casserole. It took Dorcas Reilly a month to get it right.”
Reilly was the culinary hall of famer who first developed the green bean casserole for Le Pavillon in New York. Considered too fancy by the owner of the chic restaurant, Reilly took the recipe to Campbell’s.
Because there are so many casserole combinations, Cogley notes that the menu will change regularly. His initial offerings include tuna noodle, chicken and rice, turkey tetrazzini and cheesy potato, in addition to green bean. The casserole theme extends to dessert, as well.
“With casseroles you have infinite options,” Cogley points out. “We could prepare funeral potatoes from Utah or the tater tot hot dish from Minnesota, for example. The flavors come together so beautifully.”
For his cheeseburger casserole, Cogley grinds A5 Wagyu beef from Japan and shreds Wyke Farms Reserve cheddar. The macaroni is prepared fresh in house and the herbs and vegetables sourced locally. But he has Worcestershire sauce flown in daily from Worcester in England.
“When we tried the recipe for the first time, I knew we had nailed it,” Cogley recalls. “My sous chef said ‘This is like Hamburger Helper.’ That meant a lot to me.”
Cogley expects the same reaction from the Michelin critics. And other star chefs are taking note.
Chef Jonny Black plans to roll out a Denny’s-inspired menu of slams, melts and skillets at nearby Chez Noir. Meanwhile Chef Michael Rotondo of Monterey’s Coastal Kitchen is considering quick service options.
“This is the direction fine dining restaurants need to be going,” Cogley says. “I guarantee you that within a year, Sardine Factory will be all about Salisbury steak.”

(2) comments
Hah! And I was ready to loan my casserole cookbooks to Justin!
I love this so much! “When we tried the recipe for the first time, I knew we had nailed it,” Cogley recalls. “My sous chef said ‘This is like Hamburger Helper.’ That meant a lot to me.” Happy April Fools!!!
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