Veal Medallions
Pedantic sorts may have to fight the urge to call out Taste Café & Bistro on their veal medallions. Thin slivers of meat – that’s more of a scallopini. You see, medallions should be between one and… Never mind, these things are enticing.
The veal is scored by the grill, etching in a hoarse, bittersweet char. It’s a common technique, yet here it somehow becomes almost mystical – a pungent streak trailing years of culinary memories. There is heart and hearthstone and all of that dark savor worn into the grill, an impression that lingers, swelling again when touched to the rich marsala sauce.
On its own, the reduction packs a coarse salinity. Against the veal, however, it develops a smoky draught which carries over the musty sensation of deftly sauteed mushrooms. There’s a richness to the combination. It is reminiscent of a backyard burger, scorched over flame.
Yes, by tossing such narrow slices on the grill, they risk punishing the delicate meat – and it happens. Just as with their casual interpretation of medallion, however, you really don’t care. This is cooking from heart and home and well-seasoned iron. And that is just plain good.
TASTE CAFÉ & BISTRO, 1199 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. 655-0324, tastecafebistro.com
(0) comments
Welcome to the discussion.
Log In
Keep it Clean. Please avoid obscene, vulgar, lewd, racist or sexually-oriented language.
PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK.
Don't Threaten. Threats of harming another person will not be tolerated.
Be Truthful. Don't knowingly lie about anyone or anything.
Be Nice. No racism, sexism or any sort of -ism that is degrading to another person.
Be Proactive. Use the 'Report' link on each comment to let us know of abusive posts.
Share with Us. We'd love to hear eyewitness accounts, the history behind an article.