The bad news: A serious extra virgin olive oil shortage has hit Europe, where most of it is made. Drought, olive flies and moths – brought on by high spring temperatures, lots of rain, a mild summer and bad luck – will drop supply 20 percent.
The good news: While Spain makes 45 percent of the world’s olive oil, Italy 25 percent and Greece 20 percent, California produces a big, fat, juicy 0.5 percent.
The better news: A range of regional and local producers make that olive oil.
The Weekly swung by the first annual Carmel Valley Olive Grower’s Festival earlier this winter to survey the options.
“Festival” might have been a bit of an overstatement – it was more like a friendly gathering with a gourmet tasting. The Quail & Olive owner, cardiologist Dr. Stephen Brabeck, talked about the health benefits of olive oil – especially the fresh, local stock at his store: strengthening the heart and circulatory system, fighting inflammation and fending off cancer with antioxidants. His business at 3 Pilot Road in Carmel Valley is built around his obsession with California oils and complementary home products. Each of his oils is crafted by family operations, and many of the makers attended the festival.
An olive oil cupcake contest didn’t hurt. I tried an incredible cranberry white chocolate one with a bourbon topper and a carrot raisin with buttercream frosting. Hard to have a bad time after that much doctor-approved sugar.
Below appears a peek at the producers, in time for last-minute gift-getting:
Belle Vue Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Belle Vue, French for “beautiful view,” is done with an old-school, provincial French style – featuring hand-selected fruit, cold pressed with a granite millstone – in Carmel Valley. The resulting oil enjoys a multitude of flavors, from green apple to burnt pumpkin, all in one. Bottles ($22) appear at local food shops, from Whole Foods to The Quail & Olive (like each oil here).www.bellevueoliveoil.com.
Bobcat Ridge Olive Oil
Geoffrey Ashton pit-stopped in California on a trip from the U.K., fell in love and stayed. But European Arbequina and Arbosana olive trees came to him and the eponymous ridge of the valley, thanks to his shipping industry expertise. They create uniquely grassy, fruity and pungent oil. A great crossover oil, it’s subtle enough to use on salads, but bold enough to finish pastas, meats and grilled vegetables. Plus, his dog is named Oliver. Available at Wild Bird Haven or online at bobcatridgeoliveoil.com ($17.50).
Carmel Valley Olive Oil
Kathy and Alfred Hebermann’s 12-year-old, 1.5-acre plot of Arbequina, Picholine, Kalamata and Picual varieties provide a soft, smooth and slightly spicy taste. For the retired tech pros, this establishment is certainly more passion than business, as the returns don’t even cover their costs. “It’s a labor of love,” says Kathy. Q&O is where to find it ($18.50).
Castle Ridge
Their so-called “liquid gold” comes organic, handpicked and cold pressed, offering a distinct taste that is ripe, buttery, floral and nutty, with a hint of green banana and cinnamon. There’s no website and no other outlet than Quail for purchase ($16), and production is limited, so move. Aging olive oils is unwise anyway.
Holman Ranch Olive Oil
Their olive grove is swiftly becoming as noteworthy as Holman’s wines and hospitality. The grove is composed of 100 trees with multiple mature cultivars, including 25 Frantoio, 25 Leccino, 10 Mission, 25 Coratina, 5 Pendolino and 10 Picholine. Theirs is a creamy, zingy and light oil that goes pretty well with just about anything. More about the oil and the epic property atwww.holmanranch.com. Available at their tasting room or Will’s Fargo ($25).
Other Brother Extra Virgin Olive Oil
The Bay Area-based company offers a fruity, buttery and smooth oil in its late-harvest Tuscan blend, made with Carmel Valley olives, which earned Best of Show in the Napa Valley Olive Oil Competition. The extra virgin Shorty oil features a blend of California olives – Arbequina, Leccino and Pendolino. Its light, tight 250ml tin ($16) was unique among the oils at the festival, but theirpièce de résistance is their now-sold-out Gunpowder olive oil, ($20) made with their special Gunpowder spice ($8 a la carte): peppers, Gilroy garlic and secret ingredients.www.theotherbrothercompany.com and the Quail ($18).
Sciabica’s California Olive Oil
Since 1936, the Sciabica family has produced and poured its “sunshine in a bottle,” expanding from different press strengths and blends into other accoutrement like olive oil moisturizers ($9.99). They also develop oil-centric cookbooks, including one dedicated to sweets (all $14.95). They’ve even begun offering cold-pressed fusions, like blood orange and habanero oils ($17.50 each). Available at sunshineinabottle.com or Quail.
Tres Osos Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Dean Griggs’ latest masterpiece: the award winning Tres Osos Extra Virgin Olive Oil, organically grown, hand picked and cold pressed 7 miles from the Pacific, near mid-Valley. The year-round ocean breezes provide ideal growing conditions and a unique flavor. The beautiful, bright green oil arrives full of tropical and green-apple aromas, with a fruitily well-balanced taste. It’s got a lingering, punchy finish to boot. Tuscan style oil fans need look no further. Available through several outlets, and locally at Quail ($19.95).

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