Stationæry

If you can figure out how to get there, funny-named new cafe/restaurant Stationæry hopes to become your new favorite spot in Carmel.

The moniker isn’t strange to owners Alissa and Anthony Carnazzo: The couple invented it as a mash-up homage to Alissa’s background in letterpress printing – stationEry – and Anthony’s desire to provide a place to be still – stationAry.

After 15 years in the restaurant industry, the latter intended to open a “small and sweet” European-inspired coffee shop. Being hidden from GPS searches, tucked away in pedestrian-only San Carlos Square, is part of the appeal, as Carnazzo hopes it will bring in neighbors “little by little.”

Stationæry certainly does invite one to linger, starting with a nutty oat milk latte with beans from San Francisco Sightglass coffee. The Carnazzos and Chef Amalia Scatena work with Savor the Local to get fresh produce delivered the same day it’s harvested. Watching a cook dart out to grab some herbs from the patio is just part of the sunshiney ambiance.

Once the (Corral de Tierra Cattle Co.) beef patty melt arrived, I realized oh, that’s just what they call a burger. Pickles (made using the chef’s grandmother’s recipe) added a little crunch to smoky meat and ketchup on a brioche bun, as did some crispy shallots. Hearty, warming and pretty standard for America’s favorite food, I wondered, is it such a classy burger that one can’t call it a burger?

Another classic came from the carbonara pasta special. Dotted with grated preserved egg yolk and pecorino romano, the comforting dish brought guanciale together with salt, cream and truffle pepper in a luxurious swirl of firmly al dente pappardelle pasta ribbons.

The name Stationæry in itself implies some creativity, and creative plates are really where the kitchen shines. Though I was disappointed they had run out of potato pancakes, their chicken and rice bowl proved to be quite soothing. Perfectly tender mushrooms star here, bringing funk and flavor to shredded chicken, brown rice and well-salted kale in a white miso sauce. A fried egg yolk seeped throughout the bowl, so that each bite was both delicious and interesting.

In fact, it was all so delicious and interesting that I would go back despite the service. While the owners buzzed around smiling and hosting, our server was less than friendly. And – as it can – her absent-minded demeanor and neglect on important check-ins dampened the whole experience. We were left with no water throughout the meal, yet empty glasses sitting on the table were less offensive than the way she dropped off the check without saying a word.

And yet, Anthony Carnazzo explained that he hired staff with zero hospitality experience on purpose, in hopes of training them to be the exact kind of servers he’s looking for. His method is not unheard of, but it does require patience from everyone, especially guests.

And that’s what this little restaurant seems to be about: patience – for good food, good coffee, no GPS assistance and, of course, the ability to be stationary.

STATIONÆRY San Carlos between Fifth and Sixth, Carmel. 8am-5pm daily. thestationaery.com