Silver Tide

Where in the world is Silver Tide? It is supposed to be somewhere within the Embassy Suites, but there you are, standing in the lobby with a puzzled look. Just where does the hotel end and the restaurant begin?

Only after catching the attention of a bartender were we comfortable that dinner would be forthcoming. Even then, the flow of hotel guests plucking at a buffet line of popcorn and crudites nearby caused some doubt. The room resembles a nook for those free breakfasts that are routine at such places – sturdy flooring, muted colors, all the charm of a drive across Nebraska in the middle of November.

Such is the uncertain invitation chef Chris Elser and his kitchen crew must overcome. They go about it with offerings like the pork belly flatbread, a clever and surprisingly festive dish. Bits of pineapple and pillows of roasted tomato pop with sweetness of different hues. Char marks lend depth to the mellow, toasty crust – a beautiful flatbread with a crisp patina. Arugula and grilled onions offer a gentle rasp that hardly chastises the fruit.

The only thing that dampens the party is the pork belly itself. Pale and wan, it seems to crave some caramelization. A side order of artichokes, blackened and withered from the grill, makes it evident that kitchen staff could coax more from pork belly. A hearth-like haze – rich and smoky – lingers in the leaves.

Taking a cue from a certain popular brunch dish, Elser prepares “honey scented” Southern fried chicken with an additional drizzle from a bear-shaped plastic squeeze bottle in mind. Now, some still sneer at the thought of blanketing savory with sweet, but you want it here. The crust carries a gruff earthiness that welcomes a coating of honey in the most warm-hearted of manners. The hoarse, crackling shell begins to gleam. The tender meat picks up an earthy drawl from the combination of crust and honey. And the whole becomes captivating.

Yet there is something homey about the experience, as well. The huge grandmother’s house portion, the familiar bear-shaped bottle – this is a friendly, church basement presentation… well, except for the slaw. No small-town Southern grandmother would serve a kale and fennel slaw. But it works, thanks to a grassy, peppery edge that counters the honey.

Hilton completed a $17 million renovation of the Embassy Suites location last fall, allowing the chef a pause to update the menu, though the basics remain. Filet mignon relishes a reserved seasoning hand. Under just a sprinkle of salt and pepper, the full rugged, fusty savor of Angus stands out. Beef is not a resilient thing. It cowers when threatened with sauce, spice or even a bit too much heat. Here they let the meat speak for itself.

On the downside, the slab presented to our table was stoked beyond medium rare – but just a notch or two.

The pork belly and the slightly revved steak are minor infractions, however. This is a solid effort following the hotel’s renovation, at least from the kitchen.

SILVER TIDE BAR & GRILL 1441 Canyon Del Rey Blvd., Seaside. 11:30am-1:30pm, 5-11pm daily. 393-1115, embassysuites3.hilton.com