Angelina’s Bakery, Deli and Cafe

“It’s perfect!” cries a customer as he walks up to the counter at Angelina’s Bakery, Deli, and Cafe, drawing attention to the cake taking up all the available space on top of the pastry case. “She’s going to love it!”


Heads turn to what looks like an 18-by-24-inch canvas covered in red and pink paint. “Happy 9th Birthday!!” runs in red cursive across pink frosting with a Strawberry Shortcake plastic figurine on top. It looks flawless to me, and I’m well over 9. I can only imagine how it will make the birthday girl feel.


My tastebuds felt like celebrating too, which led me to learn why it’s barely enough to call Angelina’s just a bakery, deli, and cafe. It offers both Latin and North American plates. It accommodates every craving, be it savory, cheesy, juicy, hearty, sweet, indulgent, sinful, breakfast, lunch or dessert. There’s sweet apple strudel ($4) and classic American breakfasts of eggs, bacon, hashbrowns and toast ($6.75). Deli sandwiches with heavy cheese ($6.50) and hearty carne asada burritos ($5.50). Fluffy lemon cake ($4) and Italian apricot filled cookies ($.75).


That helps explain the diverse clientele in the kitschy spot on a recent lovely Sunday morning: Two brunchers dressed in Sunday’s best sit in the corner eating French toast with fresh fruit. Another enjoys a turkey sandwich. A few Latino gentlemen take turns color commentating the soccer game on the flatscreen television as they eat their housemade pupusas (two for $4) and thick and crusty tortas ($6.50). A group of regulars partake in a side chat with the counter server between customers. A wide-eyed troop of out-of-towners who have successfully managed to find this hidden delight – even though it’s tucked between auto shops on the faraway end of Fremont – and reward themselves with an array of sweets including the Mexican wedding cookies and slices of sweet cherry bread (two for $1).


Each face frames a pleasant smile, which adds to the cozy home feeling of the place, which can feel like a funky grandma’s kitchen with its mismatching tablecloths and seat cushions, the gaudy gold-framed mirror over an old school fish tank and generic promotional posters of a cup of coffee and cookies on windows painted with graduation cakes.


For starters, I order a small coffee ($1.50) and a cream puff pastry, or “cream horn” ($1.75), at the counter. The puff pastry’s fluffy texture – sprinkled with crunchy sugar rocks – dances with the smooth and creamy texture of the buttery custard inside. 


The coffee station is completely self-serve and stocked with Java Bob’s joe. I tab an acidic Guatemalan coffee, but could’ve easily served myself a Salvadoran or Columbian, or put all roasts into one cup.


My second kick is the owner-recommended California breakfast wrap ($6.50), an excellent burrito stuffed with eggs, turkey, fresh red potatoes, cheese and avocado. It’s so big it could be my breakfast and lunch, easy.


Not nearly so easy: Making a dessert decision.


In one pastry case lies an abundance of different cookies ($0.75 each), including Swiss fudge chocolate, pecan shortbread and New York Italian, Angelina’s speciality. Sea horse and whale sugar cookies swim on their own separate tray for $1.75. Dora the Explorer, SpongeBob and Spiderman sit on their 9-inch pedestals of colorful cakes, which go 50 percent off on Mondays. New York cheesecakes squares in key lime and lemon, as well as tiramisu ($4), also stand by.


But the true object of my desire – and curiosity – is a tray at the bottom dedicated to chocolate. Desserts entitled “Oblivion” and “Fudge Killer” lure me in next to Angelina’s German chocolate cake slices and chocolate mousse bars ($4 each). I head for Oblivion, a creamy chocolate mousse with sneaky raspberry undertones that deserves its chocolate cookie crumb pedestal. Owner-operator Odir “O.B.” Bonilla later informs me it’s their most popular chocolate dessert. I don’t need to ask why.


That first visit leads me to a second – which leads me to a third and then a fourth, until the owner begins greeting me with a warm hello and small conversation. Another customer and I acknowledge each other’s existence with a small talk as we devour our choice of the day. Before him lies a cheesy quesadilla and a Mexican Coca Cola, and I indulge in Mexican hot chocolate ($2.75) and a croissant sandwich ($5.50). The croissant, like everything but the delicious tortillas – which come from La Rosa – is made in house, and excellent.


If 40-plus hot food options wasn’t quite enough, restaurant lifer Bonilla – whose brothers run Plaza Linda in Carmel Valley Village and the Courtside Cafe in the Chamisal Fitness and Tennis Club off Highway 68 – plans on adding to their extensive menu in a week, with pancakes, homemade soup, and more salads.


Which just might lead me to a fifth visit. And a sixth. 


Angelina’s Bakery Deli & Cafe 725 Fremont Blvd. in Seaside • 6am-7pm, Mon. to Thurs., 10am-3pm Sun. 394-8808, www.angelinasbakery.com