EDIBLE: At Poppy Hills, Porter’s redefines ‘golf course restaurant’ with joy.

The evidence got to be overwhelming. First there was the “bacon-and-blue” martini, with Ultimat vodka, beautiful thick-cut bacon cured in house, a blue cheese-stuffed olive and a spritz of Ardbeg single malt Islay-island Scotch to deepen its smokiness ($14). Then there was the pickled papaya-cabbage salad with chili-lime vinaigrette and an array of condiments, lined up like the greens and spices that come with a bowl of pho ($12.50). And the baked asparagus and egg covered in salmon roe ($13). And the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich and its crunchy kohlrabi slaw and house-fermented chili sauce ($14). And the Korean Philly cheesesteak with shaved tri-tip, handmade kimchi and muenster cheese, laced with Sriracha aioli ($15).

The verdict from all that evidence: Porter’s in the Forest at Poppy Hills Golf Course (622-8237) isn’t a great golf-course restaurant, as so many insiders describe it – it’s a great restaurant, period.

No hot dogs and chips here; instead there’s the occasional five – or seven-course freestyle tasting menu. If there is classic golf course fare, it’s all tuned up, like the pulled pork on brioche, the short-rib quesadilla or burger dog, each $12. And it’s more than that. It’s a playground, led by Exec Chef Johnny DeVivo, who’s equal parts humor (“I don’t think I stopped to chew that fried chicken”), creativity (ricotta-blueberry pancakes from the sexy breakfast menu) and execution (note the house-smoked corned beef).

He’s fresh off a turn on Cutthroat Kitchen (“Wouldn’t want to do that again”), gathering fresh reinforcements with new sous chef Daniel Furey (formerly of Cannery Row Brewing Company) and relatively new GM Joe Valencia (Rio Grill), and now cultivating both his own chef garden and charcuterie locker. Veteran bartender Carlos Colimodio (formerly of Flaherty’s) proves a rising star himself, crafting his own syrups and infusions like the ambrosia-esque jalapeño syrup that goes into one of the better margaritas in Monterey County. They’re collectively consumed by a joy in the inventive process and jovial company, giving off energy people want to be around, with sweeping views of tall Monterey pines and the rolling Poppy Hills course augmenting the magnetism. They’re planning a huge driving range barbecue concert for Father’s Day, wine events and four-course full moon dinners (next one is April 22). When daylight savings hits Sunday, March 13, they’ll be open later too.

“We’re having fun, dude,” DeVivo says.

And Porter’s is not alone. Since the Monterey Peninsula enjoys somewhere around 27 golf courses, odds are it should have some superlative restaurants. It does: The place known as golf’s Mecca could be footnoted as a destination for golf restaurants too.

“I don’t think i stopped to chew that fried chicken.”

The Bench at Pebble Beach does food to rival the views of the 18th and Stillwater Cove. It merits a place on this list – as does The Tap Room at Pebble, Sticks by Spanish Bay and The Grill at Old Del Monte Golf Course – only I lean toward less obvious, more sustainable and more chef-driven spots. My favorites happen to source their produce and proteins smartly. Like DeVivo, they all do great burgers too.

Email edible@mcweekly.com to add your favorites to the scorecard.

Point Pinos Grill at P.G. Municipal

Details like brown-sugar-and-pepper bacon and fried plantains make the breakfast menu pop. (The AM treats also include chocolate chip buttermilk pancakes and chicken with chile-and-corn waffles.) Lunch and dinner items like the roasted mushroom-piquillo pepper quinoa salad, pole caught albacore melt, green chile mac-’n’-cheese, boneless short ribs and coconut curry mussels entice. Owner Dory Ford, a sustainable pioneer, and Chef Orlando Corona know how to play the flavor game. On a seasonal note, the Easter brunch here is absurdly good.

79 Asilomar Ave., Pacific Grove, 648-5774, www.pointpinosgrill.com.

Edgar’s at Quail Lodge

When the Weekly tried almost every single burger in the area for a burger issue – and I ate my way into the doctor’s office (true story) – Edgar’s burger ranked as one of the best. The grass-fed burger on incredible Gayle’s bun is joined on the sandwich list by things like a robust Cuban and fried-egg club. There are also sustainably harvested sand dabs, seafood chipotle, and Pacific cod fish and chips. They do farm-fresh organic greens with aplomb, including eight salads like the asparagus with arugula, roasted onion, white beans and a fig balsamic, to complement things like Chef Kenneth McDonald’s shrimp-red onion-Monterey jack flatbreads, hangar steaks and rich house gnocchi.

8205 Valley Greens Drive, Carmel, 620-8910, www.quaillodge.com.

Clubhouse at Carmel Valley Ranch

Chef Tim Wood has been a repeat winner of our readers poll for best chef; down on the course he can play to one of his strengths: elevated casual. He also wins the Carmel Valley Chamber’s Great Bowls of Fire Chili Cook-off, so you know his traditional house-style chili with all-natural chuck, roasted spices, kidney beans, onions and cheddar is a good idea.The catch-of-the-day fish tacos are terrific too, with shredded cabbage, salsa fresca and jalapeño crème fraiche. The double stack burger brings on two Angus patties between caramelized onions, a choice of cheese and other toppings.

1 Old Ranch Road, Carmel, 625-9500, www.carmelvalleyranch.com.

~ QUICKBITES ~

• The best eater I’ve known died suddenly last week. My tribute to Cosmos of Hilby Gardens appears on the blog.
• The Perfect Crumb Bakery (444-2430) opens on the 300 block of Lighthouse in New Monterey Sunday, March 13, after rave reviews at a number of farmers markets. More on the blog.
• In N Out update: The corporate office in Irvine says the Seaside location still doesn’t have an opening date. A customer service official says she’s hoping for the end of the month but resolutely refuses to be any more specific.
• The Whaling Station (373-3778) hosts a three-course dinner 4-5:30pm Sunday, March 13, ($30++) to tempt people with a seven-stop cruise around Italy and Croatia withJohn Pisto.
• Carmel’s Surf N Sand (624-1805) does another big bargain wine dinner Thursday, March 17, with five family-style courses from Chef Selene Johnson paired with Robert Mondavi wines ($49).
• Cannery Row Brewing Company (643-2722) does a black-and-tan beer menu for St. Paddy’s March 17-19.
• Tarpy’s Roadhouse (647-1444) parties for St. Patrick’s with housemade corned beef, green beer and free dessert for peeps wearing green (one per table).
• Flanagan’s Irish-American Pub (625-5500) in Carmel’s Barnyard also goes off March 17, $39 includes swag, a drink token and raffle ticket.
• For a sexy Mexy St. P’s: March 17 with Rio Grill + Don Julio dinner – five courses, paired with food and tequila insight (625-5436, $90 includes gift).
• Saturday, March 19, Carmel Valley Ranch’s Valley Kitchen welcomes Master of Scotch Josh Gelfand to taste, talk and teach whiskey, with a tasting and dinner ($85, RSVP 626-2599).
• Trio Carmel (250-7714) celebrates the release of Rosé and Albariño wines from Ian Brand & Family Winery with a complimentary tasting March 11-13.
• When Vaughn Taylor won the AT&T Pebble Beach Pro-Am, he celebrated by filling the crystal trophy with $450-worth of margarita at Barmel (626-3400).
• From an old Irish headstone: “Death leaves a heartache no one can heal, love leaves a memory no one can steal.”