A first-time restaurant owner finds success.

A year ago David Rodas didn’t fully understand what lay ahead.

The first-time restaurant owner had just opened Mission 19 Taqueria on Lighthouse Avenue in Monterey. Decoration from the location’s previous occupant – an Italian restaurant – were still prominent.

Last week, on March 11, the little corner taqueria celebrated its one-year anniversary. Over the past 12 months, Rodas has expanded the menu three times, there have been lines out the door, birthday celebrations, even a couple on their honeymoon craving tacos.

Already, Rodas has plans for a second location. And he’d like to add a third – it has gone pretty well.

“One year,” Rodas says, shaking his head in a bit of disbelief but smiling broadly. “It’s been quite an experience – a lot of pains and gains.”

Mission 19 is not a quick-service taqueria. Tortillas are just a ball of masa prepared a few hours earlier until an order is placed. Meats and vegetables don’t hit the flattop until they are needed.

Only the birria, which stews slowly, is cooked ahead of time. The meat becomes so delicate that in street taco form, juices laden with earthy spice drip onto hands and plate in a glorious mess. And the tortillas – oh, the tortillas.

Complaints on social media are related to this concept. Preparing an order from scratch demands patience from customers. Rodas admits he and his crew could do a better job of informing first-time guests, but he’s unwilling to change.

“We don’t pinch pennies on ingredients,” he says. “Everything is fresh.”

Despite some widely publicized – and quite frightening – data, it is not known how many restaurants shut down or trade hands in their first year of operation. The most careful studies place the figure at 1 in 5. Two of the reasons often cited for failure are inexperience and location. So Rodas started with two strikes against him.

Until Covid shutdowns, Rodas was a marketing executive. He admits that many times over the past 12 months he asked himself, “Why did I get into this?” Appliances break down, employees don’t show. He has filled in behind the counter, cleaned the dining room, washed dishes – pretty much all of it.

“I’ve learned that it’s hard work, but very rewarding,” Rodas says. “When you’re feeding someone, it’s very personal. No matter if it’s one taco or a $300 order, you treat everybody the same.”

He had the right instincts, starting with a limited menu and building from there. In the beginning, the staff consisted of Rodas, Samuel Avila, now the manager, and Chef Christina Avila. The restaurant now employs nine, including a dishwasher.

“It’s a team effort,” Rodas says. “You have to have the right people.”

Samuel Avila took charge of decorating the dining area, erasing the vestiges of Tutto Buono Eataliano. It’s now a colorful, festive space.

The restaurant’s location was another concern. Mission 19 sits on a well-traveled corner, but two previous occupants – a deli and the Italian kitchen – had shuttered in short order. In restaurant industry lore, cursed locations are a thing. But Rodas appears to have broken the spell. “Knock on wood,” he says with a laugh.

Luck may play a part, but one of the keys to Mission 19’s success is something more fundamental. Rodas holds degrees in business with a marketing emphasis from Sacramento State and Pepperdine and spent nine years with Procter & Gamble before venturing out on his own.

Lessons learned in college and the corporate world apply, even at a tidy little taqueria. “I remember the CEO [of P&G] saying that we sell millions of products, but when you have repeat customers you’re winning – that’s true,” Rodas explains. “I love the tourists, but it gives me joy when people come in every week.”

After a year, the gains have clearly outnumbered the pains for Rodas and his first restaurant venture. He calls it a humbling experience – “you can never be too arrogant; you always learn something” – and one that is uniquely rewarding.

“I would do it again,” he says. Then a smile creases his face. “I’m going to do it again.”

MISSION 19 TAQUERIA, 598 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey. (925) 518-0402, mission19taqueriaca.com