What does it take to earn a Michelin star? We spent a day to find out.

The phrase Michelin star means something. I would venture that even those who rarely venture beyond fast casual dining—and with inflation, who could blame them—have an impression of Michelin star restaurants.

Dave Faries here, adding that the meaning is likely different, depending upon one’s perspective. Maybe there’s an element of snobbery. Certainly the places must be expensive. Are Michelin star dining experiences a black tie affair?

The first (and only) time I dined at a three Michelin star restaurant, I was indeed the only male without a tie—although I did think to bring a nice Armani coat…which I found at a thrift store. But the place was hardly stuffy. When it came to dessert, I told the waiter, “Finally a course where you don’t use truffles.” He laughed and replied, “We have truffle crème brûlée.”

Times have changed. Even fine dining rooms have become more casual. Yet the stars still represent a level of quality and service well above the norm. So the question that we found interesting in framing this week’s cover story was not the dining experience. Instead, we wondered what is required of the people working at the restaurant to achieve that level of presentation.

Chef Jonny Black and his team at Chez Noir, a Michelin star restaurant in Carmel, were kind enough to let me and Staff Photographer Daniel Dreifuss spend a day in their world.

That involved a terrifying—for me—hour attempting to scramble over large rocks while the chef foraged. My knees are uncertain even on smooth surfaces thanks to a stint playing semi-pro football. Fortunately, we discovered a team that is personable, but also solidly professional. As they arrived to start their shifts, there were no water cooler chats. Each staff member set to work, catching up as they went about their tasks without wasting a moment.

Simply put, part of what it takes to earn a Michelin star is temperament. But you can check out the rest of it here.

Now I’ve seen the inner workings of Chez Noir. One day I plan to dine there. And I am certainly looking forward to it.