The Quail's new chef can do fine dining, but he's just as happy with a plate of nachos.

That Brandon Bollenbacher is an accomplished chef who recently took the helm at The Quail in Carmel Valley raises expectations for lunch. He could suggest the chicken paillard, for instance, or a salad of basmati rice, golden raisins and slivered almonds spiked with curry.

Instead, the chef decides to dress down. “Nachos,” he tells the server with some enthusiasm.

Despite his luxury resort resume, Bollenbacher has an appetite for authentic local hangouts—even dives—provided the kitchen is dedicated to quality.

“Not everything has to be Michelin star,” he explains. “You want approachable food that’s done well.”

That’s the foundation of Bollenbacher’s approach to Edgar’s Restaurant, the casual dining room related as much to The Quail’s golf club as to resort guests. With Covey Grill in the role of the venue’s destination, the menu at Edgar’s had languished. So before putting his touches on the fine dining experience, the incoming chef first turned his attention to the more relaxed setting.

Bollenbacher started by listening to golf club members and other regulars. Sand dabs reappeared on the menu, as did cioppino. He has a personal affinity for Thai favorites, having lived in Asia. Because of this, Bollenbacher added a red shrimp curry. After an eggplant parmesan special sold out, he made the dish permanent.

“This place had its glory days,” he observes. “Members have this idea of how it once was and should be. They care enough to give feedback.”

The menu at Edgar’s is eclectic, designed with those just off the course or spending a convivial evening with friends. There are soups and sandwiches, with necessities such as the smashburger and street tacos, but also pan roasted salmon and steak frites. A lineup of flatbreads rests toppings on dough with a compelling notion of toasted malt.

On weekends, when the restaurant opens for dinner, the offerings expand, with more entrees and a rotation of specials that allow Bollenbacher to flex his well-honed technique. Fridays are for catch of the day. On Saturdays it’s a dish from his own recipe catalog. Sundays are more traditional: prime rib.

“That’s the idea—good, solid food,” he says. “I want this place to be bustling.”

Bollenbacher understands the demands of a luxury resort setting. He has worked kitchens for Alila Hotels & Resorts, Aman Resorts and others, in the U.S. as well as locations such as Cambodia and Montenegro.

Most recently, he served as executive chef at Vespera Resort in Pismo Beach. And even though a newcomer to the Monterey County dining scene, Bollenbacher is one of the locals selected to prepare dishes at Pebble Beach Food & Wine.

“I truly love hospitality—the connection, making someone’s experience better,” Bollenbacher says, adding with a laugh, “I’m not good at anything else.”

The chef will eventually put his stamp on Covey Grill. But it’s not in his nature to make changes without consideration of guests.

“I’ve always listened,” he points out. On occasions when a diner has challenged him to create a dish on the spot, Bollenbacher is quick to redirect the process. “I ask, ‘What do you love?’ Point me in a direction.”

And if that direction includes a group of friends who want to share a plate of nachos, he has them covered—with fire-roasted salsa, as well as a mix of cheeses that provide notions of salt, tang, earthiness and soft cream in an effortless cascade. These are familiar and satisfying.

“Think about all the things you like about food,” Bollenbacher says. He mentions flavor and visual appeal, of course, as well as culinary skill. But he also brings up camaraderie and laughter at the table, nostalgia and other very human impulses.

“This is casual,” he adds about Edgar’s. “You can just arrive.”